sciuri wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 2:48 pm
If using a C1M pot for bass, would the schematic be the same or would the hookups be different since it's a reverse pot?
Oof... see, that's the thing I'm least sure about on my own diagram too...
Since I've seen different diagrams out there showing PTB with the bass cut pots as A (audio taper), reverse-wired B (linear taper), and C (reverse audio taper), and in so many threads people had subbed out different ones because they couldn't find a C1M, I honestly feel like I just don't even know which is "correct" anymore, haha...
After feeling overwhelmed with so many different diagrams and so much contradictory information on forums, I decided to try and stick as closely as possible to most "common" PTB diagrams for my first attempt; and that if I wasn't happy with those results I'd make modifications from there... (and I believe Reverend's "Bass Contour" is just a slightly modified "common" PTB)
Even though I'm not super-confident about it, I
think the PTB in the
diagram I made for myself is "correct" for using a C-type potentiometer.
However! It seems PTB commonly has the pickup signal go through Treble-cut and Bass-cut first (in either order), and to Volume-cut
last before the output.
If I'm correctly understanding the many (many) things that I've read, having the Volume pot last helps stabilize the output impedance. If the Bass or Treble cut is the last thing before the output, then I think your output impedance will vary depending on how you have your controls set, which may or may not cause odd results depending on what equipment your instrument connects to first.
But in any case, it looks like all of the diagrams that I happen to have saved on my laptop show the pickup signal going IN to the Bass pot on post #2, and OUT on post #3 (with a 0.0022 uF capacitor between them), just like on your Kyle Shutt and my own; regardless of what pot type the various diagrams indicate.
Hopefully that helps!
(or that you're at least now as confused as I am, haha)
Jack