1966 Vintage Jaguar restoration

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Santa Fe NM. There is a shop here, maybe two- but not sure about the expertise. Although most likely better than I.

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Yeah as far as the pup height, of course that all depends on everything else- I was just thinking of a starting point, without the pick guard, bridge, even neck installed- just thinking will this foam work, that's all. Thanks!

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Putting an AMPRO/Johnny Marr bridge with 52mm string spacing on my '66 Jag. Hoping to get the mute working too. Anyone know what size Allen wrench to use on the bridge height adjustment screws? Fender did not supply one with the bridge.

[alexpigment]

https://www.fmicassets.com/Damroot/Orig ... B_SISD.pdf

Parts diagram says it's 5/64", so either that or perhaps a 2mm would work.

[fendermcfenderface1!]

So turns out it's a 2mm allen wrench. The Johnny Marr (American Pro) takes a metric size wrench to adjust bridge height.

Putting a Spitfire pickguard on it. I went with a red/burgundy Tort with a slight relic on the edges, so the cream color (not white) plays off the pup covers. It was pricey, but man oh man it's beautiful, and keeps the vintage vibe and plays off the Fiesta Red fantastically! I had some minor trim g to do where the guard contacts the chrome switch plate for the rhythm circuit, but no biggie. I have the old original guard, couldn't use it as it had been mangled- the original Fender guard from the 60's looks absolutely dull and drab by comparison. Mark at Spitfire does amazing work.

[alexpigment]

So turns out it's a 2mm allen wrench. The Johnny Marr (American Pro) takes a metric size wrench to adjust bridge height.

5/64" is 2mm, which is why I mentioned both.

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Odd, I tried a 5/64' didn't feel like a fit, anyway the 2 mm works great. I can't seem to get the action as low as I'd like, because of the mute- I thought I'd keep the mute, as part of the whole vintage vibe aspect of the thing. Quirky as it is. But as I lower the bridge, the edge of the mute, when tripped, contacts the edge of the bridge and the result is the mute action being restricted. I think I'll try tightening the mute screws a bit, closer to the body, next time the bridge comes off with restringing- but there's not a lot of tightening that can be done, as some slack in those screws is required.

I'm using a Marr bridge and have shimmed the neck 1 degree with a stewmac shim. I suppose I could add another .5 degree shim to angle the neck back a bit more, effectively bringing the fretboard closer to the strings, thus lowering the action that way while keeping the bridge and mute from contacting- any advice or thoughts would be appreciated!

[MrSparkle]

I'm using a Marr bridge and have shimmed the neck 1 degree with a stewmac shim. I suppose I could add another .5 degree shim to angle the neck back a bit more, effectively bringing the fretboard closer to the strings, thus lowering the action that way while keeping the bridge and mute from contacting- any advice or thoughts would be appreciated!

That sounds like the correct plan, without being able to see the setup. Maybe even just 0.25'.

It's a lot of shim, but if it's what the guitar needs....