Decent locking Jazzmaster tremolo options

[DavidP51]

I’m enjoying my Squier 40th Anni Vintage Ed Desert Sand Jazzmaster, but the tremolo on these lacks a lock button --kinda critical as I do drop-D tuning on the fly. Rather than bite the bullet on an AVRI trem unit, I'm looking at generic brand ones. However, reviews of ones offered by StewMac, Allparts, etc., reveal issues with the lock— either not connecting or very unstable and easily loosened. The issue(s) appears to be either a too narrow slot and/or a rounded vs. flat lock nut on the underside.
Has anyone had experience (good bad or ugly) with any non-Fender branded units, specifically the locking function?

[DrippyReverbTremolo]

Honestly, get an AVRI. They're about twice as much as the options you mention but it's money well spent. I have the same guitar as you, put one on and am very happy with it.

[BoringPostcards]

The AVRI unit is worth every cent. I know it’s not the response you’re after, but it really is the best option.

[Larry Mal]

The AVRI would be the minimum quality I would consider.

[timtam]

This guy has done fairly extensive Fender (AVRI. CP, MIJ)/Squier/Staytrem trem comparisons. The superiority of the AVRI (particularly at the prices it often goes for outside the US - he's in the UK) over say the (lock) Classic Player was not obvious.
https://www.youtube.com/@MarkB.Guitar/videos

[LeamanCrews]

The AllParts one proves that sometimes a bargain is not a bargain. I got one when I bought my CV JM. The spring has nowhere near enough tension, so I had to replace that. The collet was so short, so the bar was too high to pull up on. Another replacement. Then the lock issues started. I had to put some tape on the back of the unit to get the lock button to stay up, or else it would slide down while playing.

Replaced it with a MIJ '62 reissue unit and I couldn't be happier.

[dangayle]

I’m enjoying my Squier 40th Anni Vintage Ed Desert Sand Jazzmaster, but the tremolo on these lacks a lock button --kinda critical as I do drop-D tuning on the fly. Rather than bite the bullet on an AVRI trem unit, I'm looking at generic brand ones. However, reviews of ones offered by StewMac, Allparts, etc., reveal issues with the lock— either not connecting or very unstable and easily loosened. The issue(s) appears to be either a too narrow slot and/or a rounded vs. flat lock nut on the underside.
Has anyone had experience (good bad or ugly) with any non-Fender branded units, specifically the locking function?

Maybe a dumb question, but why do you need to lock it to do drop d?

[ldp54002]

Maybe a dumb question, but why do you need to lock it to do drop d?

Lowering tension on one of the strings can pull the others sharp. That's why Fender included the lock--in case of a string breaking.

That said, I'm a little surprised that just going from E to D is impacting the other strings that much. I occasionally do drop D on my JMs and Jags and I don't notice much (if any) movement on the other strings. Maybe string gauge is a factor?

[alexpigment]

I use the lock for any tunings beyond drop d. For my gauge of strings and setup, it’s a non-issue going from standard to drop d. I know there is some shifting of pitch technically speaking, but it’s negligible.

With that being said, I’ve owned several types of trem and the AVRI is the one that is consistently good. The MIM with the lock is hit or miss, though I do have one example that works perfectly.

[GilmourD]

If you're gonna go AVRI, make sure you get a good price. This is my go-to for a ton of parts that I've bought. No, I'm not associated with them. I actually have a completely different Reverb store where I don't carry AVRI trems. LOL Hell, a lot of money from my sales went right back into purchases from these guys for offset parts.

https://reverb.com/item/16760693-genuin ... olo-chrome

[MayTheFuzzBeWithYou]

Maybe a dumb question, but why do you need to lock it to do drop d?

Lowering tension on one of the strings can pull the others sharp. That's why Fender included the lock--in case of a string breaking.

That said, I'm a little surprised that just going from E to D is impacting the other strings that much. I occasionally do drop D on my JMs and Jags and I don't notice much (if any) movement on the other strings. Maybe string gauge is a factor?

I play Drop D (or better said Drop C#, with 11-56 strings) almost all the time with zero issues on any of my Fender or Mastery or even cheap no lock, no name Vibrato units (which might have other issues like noise/clanking) - but I did notice this phenomenon with the Göldo Offset Vibrato (the funky looking one) - on my Eastwood Sidejack (3 by 3 tuners, the D and G strings always went sharp, but would stay in tune if I tuned it to standard tuning) - but when I went back to the non locking cheap aftermarket offset vibrato that was on it before, the issues stayed away... so depending on your string gauge, the lock might not even be necessary - but somehow they subjectively feel like better units if they have them. But yeah, for not much more the AVRI is a top notch unit.

[gibs]

I’m enjoying my Squier 40th Anni Vintage Ed Desert Sand Jazzmaster, but the tremolo on these lacks a lock button --kinda critical as I do drop-D tuning on the fly. Rather than bite the bullet on an AVRI trem unit, I'm looking at generic brand ones. However, reviews of ones offered by StewMac, Allparts, etc., reveal issues with the lock— either not connecting or very unstable and easily loosened. The issue(s) appears to be either a too narrow slot and/or a rounded vs. flat lock nut on the underside.
Has anyone had experience (good bad or ugly) with any non-Fender branded units, specifically the locking function?

Maybe a dumb question, but why do you need to lock it to do drop d?

Yea, that’s what I was thinking, I did initially have plans of using the lock for drop tunings, but it doesn’t really happen often, I do go back and forth a lot beteeen standard and drop d but I never felt it necessary to use the lock for that (I run 10 to 46) been awhile since I’ve done drop C on it, but I don’t think I needed the lock for that either. The lock is just there in case of a string break for me.

That said, somebody needs to do some looking into ways of taking the lock idea and making it work like an old stienberger trans trem just for the purpose of drop tunings, I feel like you could do it, but have no idea what all it would require to pull it off. Definitely some redesign with the lock mechanism itself.

[alexpigment]

That said, somebody needs to do some looking into ways of taking the lock idea and making it work like an old stienberger trans trem just for the purpose of drop tunings, I feel like you could do it, but have no idea what all it would require to pull it off. Definitely some redesign with the lock mechanism itself.

It would be a bit convoluted to do this with the lock button, but I don't think it would be too hard to design an attachment that piggybacks on the back two screws of the trem plate (kind of how a buzz stop attaches to the front two). Then it would have some type of lever that either pulls the ball end of the E string back by a fixed amount or releases it flush with the back of the string retainer. I'm not an engineer, but I would think this would be fairly doable to those who have the technical know-how. Then again, the hipshot tuners do exist I guess.

[GilmourD]

Maybe a dumb question, but why do you need to lock it to do drop d?

Lowering tension on one of the strings can pull the others sharp. That's why Fender included the lock--in case of a string breaking.

That said, I'm a little surprised that just going from E to D is impacting the other strings that much. I occasionally do drop D on my JMs and Jags and I don't notice much (if any) movement on the other strings. Maybe string gauge is a factor?

It's doesn't shift very far but it will put you just out of tune with other instruments enough to be annoying if you're in a band.

[DavidP51]

Maybe a dumb question, but why do you need to lock it to do drop d?

Lowering tension on one of the strings can pull the others sharp. That's why Fender included the lock--in case of a string breaking.

That said, I'm a little surprised that just going from E to D is impacting the other strings that much. I occasionally do drop D on my JMs and Jags and I don't notice much (if any) movement on the other strings. Maybe string gauge is a factor?

It's doesn't shift very far but it will put you just out of tune with other instruments enough to be annoying if you're in a band.

Yes, indeed, drop-D takes the A-thru B strings sharp but the high E hangs on ok... FWIW, I'm using D'Addario 10.5- 48