Squier Classic Vibe 70s Jaguar

[alexpigment]

Here's a look under the pickguard of the new Jag. Also a short demo of what they sound like with half rounds.

https://youtu.be/yu58Th8Vhn0

Did this guy say anything correct about this guitar?

Did he say the problem with the high E was that it was not sitting on the back of the bridge, so it was able to "ring out freely"?

Did I hear that correct?

I'm not a huge fan of this guy's videos to be honest, but if you're talking about the first minute or so, I didn't hear anything really glaringly wrong. He's just confirming that the sound problem with the high E isn't related to something amiss behind the bridge, like the string resting on the bridge lip itself. I think he correctly identified that the string is vibrating loosely in the saddle due to lack of tension.

[sirspens]

Here's a look under the pickguard of the new Jag. Also a short demo of what they sound like with half rounds.

https://youtu.be/yu58Th8Vhn0

Did this guy say anything correct about this guitar?

Did he say the problem with the high E was that it was not sitting on the back of the bridge, so it was able to "ring out freely"?

Did I hear that correct?

I'm not a huge fan of this guy's videos to be honest, but if you're talking about the first minute or so, I didn't hear anything really glaringly wrong. He's just confirming that the sound problem with the high E isn't related to something amiss behind the bridge, like the string resting on the bridge lip itself. I think he correctly identified that the string is vibrating loosely in the saddle due to lack of tension.

Okay. Then I misheard him.

I am genuinely happy to know no one making guitar videos is as ignorant as I thought this guy was for a moment. haha

[The Dead Ranch Hands]

So I got a good deal on one, hopefully it will arrive next week. Will update with my thoughts once I spend some time with it.

[The Dead Ranch Hands]

Early thoughts:

Nice looking guitar, good fretwork. I didn't spot any obvious flaws anywhere. Nice C-shaped neck. I haven't played a Fender style guitar in a long time, but it seems fairly chunky, but not Gibson chunky.

Right away it needed a shim - the action was ridiculously high even with the bridge almost all the way down.

Pickups seem pretty solid, although I have an extra set of upgrades on hand that I'll be replacing them with. Sunburst finish is very similar to the previous VM Squiers - kind of muted unless in direct sunlight. Tort pickguard is nice, of the dark variety. Decent swirl pattern on the tort, better than the previous VM Squier Jag. The fretboard is unfortunately a bit light colored. Any recommendations for something to darken it up a bit?

The Mustang bridge is a nice upgrade, and the trem feels solid as well.

I'll have a better feel for it once I have a chance to put some heavier strings on it and mess with it some more. So far I'm pretty happy. Quality overall is very similar to the VM series.

[The Dead Ranch Hands]

So a couple of things to beware of - the bridge and neck pickups were swapped on mine. Also, the Mustang bridge on this appears to be the vintage 7.25" radius, which doesn't work well with the 9.5" radius. Looks like I'll have to do some modifications on the bridge to make it work. This is a big oversight - if this is someone's first guitar they're going to struggle with playability.

[alexpigment]

Also, the Mustang bridge on this appears to be the vintage 7.25" radius, which doesn't work well with the 9.5" radius.

This seems like a point worth spending time on. I’ve read quite a few reviews and no one has mentioned this. I suppose it’s possible they all didn’t notice it, but just so we’re all on the same page, how did you determine this? An under-the-strings radius gauge?

Have you measured the string spacing (E-E) to make sure it’s also in line with what’s expected? I think it’s important to rule out the possibility that someone accidentally slapped on one of those cheap Chinese mustang bridges by accident.

Lastly, you said you got a good deal on one. New or used?

[The Dead Ranch Hands]

Also, the Mustang bridge on this appears to be the vintage 7.25" radius, which doesn't work well with the 9.5" radius.

This seems like a point worth spending time on. I’ve read quite a few reviews and no one has mentioned this. I suppose it’s possible they all didn’t notice it, but just so we’re all on the same page, how did you determine this? An under-the-strings radius gauge?

Have you measured the string spacing (E-E) to make sure it’s also in line with what’s expected? I think it’s important to rule out the possibility that someone accidentally slapped on one of those cheap Chinese mustang bridges by accident.

Lastly, you said you got a good deal on one. New or used?

This was essentially new, still had all the shrink wrap on the pickups and pickguard, had all the paperwork sealed in the gig bag. The auction said it was just played a few times to determine playability. I don't think the bridge was swapped out. I don't have a way to measure the bridge radius, but to me it looks exactly like the 7.25" radius bridges I've had before, and I find that my choices in bridge height either result in a buzzing low E string or D/G strings that have higher than optimal action. So I suppose don't take what I say as gospel truth, but in my judgement this is a 7.25" radius bridge. I believe there were some Fender models recently with the same issue?

The string spacing looks good, there is no issue with the E strings being too close to the edge of the fretboard. Again, I haven't measured it though. The bones of the guitar are basically solid. But I'll need to file the underside of the center saddles to make this work.

[timtam]

Also, the Mustang bridge on this appears to be the vintage 7.25" radius, which doesn't work well with the 9.5" radius.

This seems like a point worth spending time on. I’ve read quite a few reviews and no one has mentioned this. I suppose it’s possible they all didn’t notice it, but just so we’re all on the same page, how did you determine this? An under-the-strings radius gauge?

Have you measured the string spacing (E-E) to make sure it’s also in line with what’s expected? I think it’s important to rule out the possibility that someone accidentally slapped on one of those cheap Chinese mustang bridges by accident.

Lastly, you said you got a good deal on one. New or used?

The bridge radius has been queried with a few people who bought them early on. I was somewhat surprised when they swore it was 9.5" - I'd probably have to measure it myself to be convinced. It would be the first time AFAIK that a 9.5" radius Mustang bridge had come out of Asia (usual source is Korea).

It's probably not as easy a difference to measure as fretboard radius, which is not too hard to assess. Bridge radius measured under the strings is possibly a little harder to be absolutely sure about.
Here's what the difference between curves of 7.25 and 9.5" radii looks like (image won't link) ...
https://www.talkbass.com/attachments/3t ... g.2880586/

[alexpigment]

The bridge radius has been queried with a few people who bought them early on. I was somewhat surprised when they swore it was 9.5" - I'd probably have to measure it myself to be convinced. It would be the first time AFAIK that a 9.5" radius Mustang bridge had come out of Asia (usual source is Korea).

It's probably not as easy a difference to measure as fretboard radius, which is not too hard to assess. Bridge radius measured under the strings is possibly a little harder to be absolutely sure about.
Here's what the difference between curves of 7.25 and 9.5" radii looks like (image won't link) ...
https://www.talkbass.com/attachments/3t ... g.2880586/

Completely fair point. I think the appeal of these to me initially was that it seemed like there was a new 9.5" mustang style bridge coming from Asia. And secondarily, I was hoping that the bridge would become available as a cheap aftermarket item. It would be good to know for sure what the radius is so that people can decide for themselves if it's worth it to upgrade to the Am Pro (or Staytrem) bridge or not. As it is, there seems to be some ambiguity.

Having said that, I don't think it should be too hard to confirm with a set of cheap under the string gauges if you measure right after the bridge. You just determine if the 9.5" gauge touches the D/G strings and/or if the 7.25" gauge touches both the low E and high E strings simultaneously.

[Debaser]

The radius on my new CV Jag bridge is 9.5”.

The caveat with my CV Jag is that my bridge was adjusted by Sweetwater, which is where I bought mine. The low E saddle was finessed with a nut file, probably to help with a buzz. The low E was the only saddle smoothed out, as in the ‘V” notch was smoothed into a “C”. I checked the radius under the strings using my steel gauges. I compared 7.25”, 9.5”, 10” and 12” and it was definitely not 7.25”. It was very close to 10”. I think the discrepancy is moot, even though mine was adjusted. If my low e was lowered beyond the original witness point, it would of stuck out during the check (keep ringing out). All strings deadened with a 10” radius gauge.

[Danley]

Sorry if this was already answered in a previous page of the twenty or so here - Does the walnut plug inhibit truss nut removal (without removing the plug?) The plug looks 10x better, but if you ever need to replace the truss nut on say an American Strat with a bi-flex/plug it’s annoying. Is this actually the same 1/8” hex?

[andy]

Just checking in on this thread because I played one of these at a Long & McQuade the other day. It was heavy and the neck was slim. Slimmer than my friends VM JMs and Jags. I didn't get to plug it in unfortunately.

[alexpigment]

Sorry if this was already answered in a previous page of the twenty or so here - Does the walnut plug inhibit truss nut removal (without removing the plug?) The plug looks 10x better, but if you ever need to replace the truss nut on say an American Strat with a bi-flex/plug it’s annoying. Is this actually the same 1/8” hex?

How many times are you pulling truss rods, Danley? I guess I'm fortunate that I've never had a truss rod go bad in 20+ years.

[Danley]

Sorry if this was already answered in a previous page of the twenty or so here - Does the walnut plug inhibit truss nut removal (without removing the plug?) The plug looks 10x better, but if you ever need to replace the truss nut on say an American Strat with a bi-flex/plug it’s annoying. Is this actually the same 1/8” hex?

How many times are you pulling truss rods, Danley? I guess I'm fortunate that I've never had a truss rod go bad in 20+ years.

I hate when I get a used guitar, and there's a ton of play in the truss rod nut - it's nice when you can just replace it. I've also been able to 'save' necks with too much forward bow, by putting washers or spacers behind the truss nut; this is not possible on an American bi-flex Fender nut without heating/removing the plug (which probably entails making a new plug, and having the finish look that much dodgier afterward.) Also - those 1/8" nuts are annoying because they're that much more likely to strip and require replacement than a larger allen size. Guess I have an eye for the future; but I've had at least three guitars in about twenty years with some sort of Truss rod issue (two Yamahas, one Fender.)

*True diatribe mode - this is why I like truss-adjusts on the butt-end of the neck; idiots are less likely to try to 'fix' things and mess with the rod for no reason, if they hardly know it exists (and even pros will pause to ask themselves if it's truly necessary before unscrewing the neck) ; also, the nuts are easy to replace and are slotted so can't round off.

[Mechanical Birds]

I’d really like to put bullet truss nuts on my Squiers how hard of a thing is that? I mean to get it that loose probably requires a lot of adjustment so it’d fuck up the setup but other than that...