What's on your workbench right now?

[Steadyriot.]

I'm going to try and make a jig that works with a belt sanding station, to aid with sanding the headstock transitions. This had been my least favorite step on my previous necks. I'm hoping this jig will be the right approach for me.

Post the jig if and when you build it!

Have you tried a ROSS? I’ve tried a belt sander before but I found it hard to see what I’m doing. As a ROSS sits vertical, you can always see what you’re taking off.
I’ve made just a few necks (2 or 3) so take that for what it’s worth!

[ThePearDream]

I'm going to try and make a jig that works with a belt sanding station, to aid with sanding the headstock transitions. This had been my least favorite step on my previous necks. I'm hoping this jig will be the right approach for me.

Post the jig if and when you build it!

Have you tried a ROSS? I’ve tried a belt sander before but I found it hard to see what I’m doing. As a ROSS sits vertical, you can always see what you’re taking off.
I’ve made just a few necks (2 or 3) so take that for what it’s worth!

I do have a ROSS, which I love, and is what I've used previously for the headstocks. I just feel like the ROSS isn't ideal for securing fixtures to (for keeping things straight) and can be a bit awkward to use for this task. I've usually ended up doing it by eye, which feels like walking on a tightrope. If it works, I'll have a lot more control and precision with this jig.

[UC3]

Hey Pear,

Only a veteran of one neck but I built a basic right-angle jig and attached neck to it with clamp at heel and super-glue/tape trick at headstock.


Although, I just built a DIY drum sander and can see the potential of a purpose built unit with a headstock transition focus. I think I'm at about 2 3/8" here, but you can determine your own radius during the build. Basically going from vertical to horizontal.



Plenty of vid's on the Utube.

I'll second Steady, post the results of your jig efforts. Be fun to see.

[hulakatt]

[ThePearDream]

Hey Pear,

Only a veteran of one neck but I built a basic right-angle jig and attached neck to it with clamp at heel and super-glue/tape trick at headstock.


Although, I just built a DIY drum sander and can see the potential of a purpose built unit with a headstock transition focus. I think I'm at about 2 3/8" here, but you can determine your own radius during the build. Basically going from vertical to horizontal.



Plenty of vid's on the Utube.

I'll second Steady, post the results of your jig efforts. Be fun to see.

I like what you did there with your headstock jig. For mine, for some reason, I was thinking that the belt portion of my sanding station extended out farther than it does, so I need to change my plan. I may just copy yours in the meantime.

[ThePearDream]

Another refin on this Warmoth body. This was a color I had on hand called "Currant". I think this is probably the fifth or sixth color that I've posted on this body, in this thread. There are a few more that never even made it on here as well. This time I filled the HH routing and redid it with JM pups. I have a "Space Grey" anodized guard that was on clearance on the Tone Guard reverb shop, since it was for Warmoth bodies. I just need to remove a little material for the strat bridge. No plans for the pickups yet.

[michel v]

I think I'm finally done butchering this poor Reverend . Next step is trying to make a passable pickguard for it.

[Surfysonic]

Not much to do while waiting on my MJT Jazzmaster body to complete my JM build (about 7 more weeks to go). Couple of minor mods - today I put on a pearloid pickguard on my Squier Classic Vibe '70s Jaguar to class it up a bit.





Finally put on a competion sticker on my sparkly Squier Paranormal Cyclone. I'm on the fence about it but I'll give it some time. Fortunately, it's easily removable.





Update: Competition stripes decal started to unstick, so I had two options: 1) put clear on top to seal it or 2) take it off. I went with option #2 as I was still on the fence with having it.

[hexes]

8Ω with 16 Ω option) reactive attenuator. $100-115 in parts for amps under 35 watts, maybe $150 for a 100 watter. just missing the inductor (monday). will be a pretty boring hammond box for the prototype, but I have 2 more on the bench getting fancy houses.



it’s got 3 switchable stages of attenuation, and one bypass switch.

I am skeptical of this design for one reason: these resistors drop power handing rapidly as they heat up unless mounted to a very specific heat sink. I use them as dummy load for amplifiers, but keep them mounted to large pieces of metal.

the designer claims that a hammond box this size with air holes is just fine and dandy. he’s done the math and countless iterations have been built. so here we are! thanks to JohnH/JohnDH for the work!

I’m building them for the cost of parts for a few friends. it’s dead easy to add a switchable fan for long gigs/rehearsals, as well as temperature meters, but at minimum I may shove a 12v fan in mine.

[ryland]

8Ω with 16 Ω option) reactive attenuator. $100-115 in parts for amps under 35 watts, maybe $150 for a 100 watter. just missing the inductor (monday). will be a pretty boring hammond box for the prototype, but I have 2 more on the bench getting fancy houses.



it’s got 3 switchable stages of attenuation, and one bypass switch.

I am skeptical of this design for one reason: these resistors drop power handing rapidly as they heat up unless mounted to a very specific heat sink. I use them as dummy load for amplifiers, but keep them mounted to large pieces of metal.

the designer claims that a hammond box this size with air holes is just fine and dandy. he’s done the math and countless iterations have been built. so here we are! thanks to JohnH/JohnDH for the work!

I’m building them for the cost of parts for a few friends. it’s dead easy to add a switchable fan for long gigs/rehearsals, as well as temperature meters, but at minimum I may shove a 12v fan in mine.

Would you mind sharing a link to the design for this? I’ve been thinking about building something similar as my 15-30 watt amp collection expands.

[hexes]

Would you mind sharing a link to the design for this? I’ve been thinking about building something similar as my 15-30 watt amp collection expands.

here’s the basic one.Simple Attenuator

L1 is an air core inductor. I got mine from Parts Express, all resistors from mouser, and jacks/switches from my bins.

[ryland]

Thank you!

[Nico]

For me it's an early 70's Musicmaster Bass. Not to worry, I didn't remove the original OW finish. Last owner refinished in white on top of the OW finish... I finally decided to refinish in a cool custom color

[Gordon]

My Tele is back on the bench... In the end, the change of bridge and the added black plate to cover the previous one just didn't work. So, back to the original bridge. And the black guard was fine in color, but the shape was wrong, so that had to go too. Went for white this time. And I always liked the binding tape on Danelectros, so... (but it's just regular matte vinyl tape, and it wasn't cut completely straight, but it's barely noticeable) New knobs are coming soonish. And is that a banjo armrest?

[Shadoweclipse13]

I like that! That fits a Tele VERY well!!!!