Advise please! Best oil finish for (oversanded) Squier CV neck

[MayTheFuzzBeWithYou]

Hey!
Today I was finally able to enlarge the swimming pool route on my BMM build to allow for a HH setup (only a few mm were missing).

…and while I already was at my father‘s workshop I also wanted to sand my Squier CV Jaguar I am using on it to make it a little bit less amber (especially around the Binding) and smoother - but 400 grit (which was the finest he had) was a bit too rough - so this happened:



What‘s best to do?
Shall I sand it all down (except the matching headstock and is backside) - and give it an oil finish?
My luthier friend said linseed oil varnish is the most common on (classical) guitars…
As my intention was slightly less orange-amber tint - but not too light either…
Any suggestions?

[JSett]

Gunstock oil (Tru Oil) is basically linseed oil and works a treat.

[Steadyriot.]

Gunstock oil (Tru Oil) is basically linseed oil and works a treat.

Yeah +1 on the tru-oil. Pretty fool proof finish too. Just be careful with your application rags; they can self-combust when left to dry (as can all oil finish rags).

[NICQ]

another Vote for Tru Oil

you can not buy it in Austria directly - at least I couldn't find it anywhere a few years back
best bet was amazon.co.uk - would steer clear of that after Brexit as well

try https://www.waffenpflege-shop.de/birchwood-casey.html

[CROSS_guitars]

If it were mine, I'd probably sand the whole neck down and refinish it Satin Nitro.

[MayTheFuzzBeWithYou]

Thank you all! :-)

Let's see if I can find that one... but as we can't buy guns at the supermarket - we can't buy the right oil for it that easy either... let's see what/where I can find it.

So, sand it down to get an even feeling and look and then oil that thing up, right?

[DrQuasar]

I think tru-oil is basically linseed oil but I could be wrong about that. I've used tung oil and danish oil (which I think also is mostly linseed oil) and of the two the danish oil had more of that yellowing effect. I use Watco brand just because that's what's at the home store.

[CROSS_guitars]

One thing I've experienced with Tru-oil is that it's excellent on Dark timber. But on Maple and other lighter timbers, it can look patchy. Because it's yellowish in colour, I dunno maybe other people have had different experiences applying it.

[MayTheFuzzBeWithYou]

Thanks everyone for their input!
Hmmmm. True-Oil seems to be very hard to find here indeed.
If it's basically linseed oil as well it might not be worth the trouble...

I found this: https://www.rockinger.com/werkstatt/pol ... -set?c=125 it's a oil and wax combination.
Could this be just the thing for me?

I sanded down everything except the back of the headstock. The neck feels soooo good! But looks too pale right now. haha.

[Bradley-Jazz]

It may be academic, if you can’t find it, but my experience of Tru-Oil is that if you apply it very thinly with your fingers over many coats, it gives great results and is forgiving (you can easily wire-wool it back a bit if there are any problems). I didn’t find it darkened a maple neck much - I used a couple of dilute coats of aniline dye in isopropyl alcohol first to give a bit of a tint.

[ThePearDream]

Tru Oil is a polymerized linseed oil product. It's not quite the same as raw or boiled linseed oil, which will take much longer to dry. Tru Oil does work well, and doesn't impart a strong tint.

I really like using Danish Oil these days. It's also a polymerized linseed oil. It penetrates better than Tru Oil, but doesn't get as glossy. I use it on the raw maple first before spraying. I like natural maple best, so I normally use Watco "Natural" Danish Oil, if I want a more amber look, I mix in some Watco "Golden Oak" Danish Oil.

[MayTheFuzzBeWithYou]

So, I got Danish Oil and a „Gold Brown“ water soluble stain.
I wanted to try the Danish oil first - and go with the stain afterwards - but this doesn‘t work.

Back to sanding it is!

But, on the bright side - where my oiling technique lacked effectiveness - the stained color grips and is very very close to the old Lacquer. So a (rather small but still) success.

[threewordname]

I'm sure you already discovered this, but oil based finishes/stains/tints might go over water based, but water based will almost definitely not got over oil.

[JSett]

Danish oil darkens a little over time - and darkens to a wonderful shade. The feel of it is wonderful too. I'd keep going with it, personally.

[MayTheFuzzBeWithYou]

So, current state is this:



This is just the „gold brown“ stain that I got for 1,70€. Oil comes tomorrow.

You see the transition to the headstock? Somehow I can‘t sand it enough so that the stain gets in there… ANY TIPS HERE?


but overall I‘m pretty happy with how it turned out so far!
Thanks everyone for being so great and helpful all the times!