Bridge post screws

[jorri]

Over-locktited my bridge and i think I may have stripped the key slot. Hope it comes out even so its in acetone as it may be easier if without sticking. Its a 008-1239-049 modified mustang bridge.

[timtam]

Assuming you used blue or purple loctite, it "should" have come undone with hand force. If the hex head is still workable you might be able to apply more torque with an allen key with handle - see below. For the 008-1239-049 bridge it's 1.5mm. Otherwise heat (hair drying or soldering iron). Others have reported soaking in acetone as you're doing. Then gripping pliers to unscrew from the other end if necessary. Replacement grub screws (M3) on ebay from China go for a buck or two for ten screws.

[andy_tchp]

+1, apply heat - but wash all traces of the acetone off first though.

[jorri]

Will try heat as soon as locate my soldering iron.
No luck with acetone.
Surprised me that its jammed, and especially with enough force to strip using the correct key to come with it, blue loctite can make it tight but never beyong hand strength before.

I have an old MIJ bridge i can take parts hopefully. Couldnt find correct grub screws through searching that, as they have a pointed end.

[timtam]

M3 cone tip grub screws ...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184017990420

[jorri]

M3 cone tip grub screws ...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184017990420

Thanks - i found the UK seller from that.

Length? (Sorry for my laziness, one screw is stuck and the other is just setup or whatever)

[jorri]

Feel liked i doofed up majorly. No give, nothing to grab screwn on either end. Heat did nothing. Maybe its a snapped screw rather than stripped.

I have a recording on saturday. I think i can raise the saddles and get on with it. But it would be neat to have a UK supplier of the bridge plate ONLY so i van use these saddles

[timtam]

It's always been somewhat uncertain as to whether that genuine, metric, South Korean-made Fender 0081239049 bridge (retail ~US$25) is really any different to the version(s) available via China on ebay for approx $10. All the screw sizes are the same. In any case, here's several probably overpriced UK sources for those bridges of uncertain origin ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284521350106
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265198117038

The only offset bridge plate available as a separate item is the MIJ one (spacing uncertain) ...
https://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge_jagjazz.htm

[jorri]

It's always been somewhat uncertain as to whether that genuine, metric, South Korean-made Fender 0081239049 bridge (retail ~US$25) is really any different to the version(s) available via China on ebay for approx $10. All the screw sizes are the same. In any case, here's several probably overpriced UK sources for those bridges of uncertain origin ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284521350106
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265198117038

The only offset bridge plate available as a separate item is the MIJ one (spacing uncertain) ...
https://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge_jagjazz.htm

Its different. As to how different in size, i can check and probably shouldnt complain about inferior metal, heavier and the chrome coming off i have one right here if really need, and at least not using the saddles

[jorri]

I fixed with just the saddles, using shorter trem screws to stop them hitting potentiall on 6,5,3 strings.

And ordered a Hosco mustang bridge 9.5". Looked better than the MIJ Fender offering and the AM pro is silly price. If its bollocks i can put my saddles on it.
Needs filing as ive got 9" radius on my warmoth neck but its basically off by paper thin amounts if I math right.

[jorri]

Final update: the Hosco was misadvertised. Its 7.25" i am sure as the inner saddles were higher!...at the point of being too annoyed to care and shimmed the outer saddles with copper tape, and told the seller. Was considering sanding the centre ones, but seems too easy to get wonky. At least for recording session! Small slots, seems nice otherwise, but we will see if small slots cause the slippage of strings (not yet)

The previous bridge was fine but its not available in UK so wouldnt arrive in time. Noted that also some said this bridge had long screws, but mine didnt (and i argued that is a post a while ago), yet it had the same number- fully packaged, so it might not even be the same bridge if i buy another. Id really preferred whatever is on my Squier Bass VI but no idea what number that is and never seen it sold as parts- its higher quality by the looks.

[timtam]

That's bad luck. Since the Squier CV with its Mustang-style bridge appeared (presumably Asian-made) - with 9.5" radius and 52mm E-E spacing - there have been a few aftermarket Asian-made Mustang-style bridges advertising 9.5" radius ... but it's always a bit of a punt whether to believe them. Hosco does not actually list the radius for the HK-48C ...
https://www.hosco.co.jp/en/parts/hk-48c.html


And to be precise, we should probably reserve "modified Mustang bridge" for the actual Warmoth ...
https://warmoth.com/index.php/modified-mustang-bridge


It has larger saddles than Fender's Korean-made 0081239049, which Riley describes as "Fender Mustang Bridge with Height Adjustable Saddles" ...
https://darrenriley.com/store/fender-mu ... 081239049/

[jorri]

Trouble with a lot of them is gaps, like warmoth, allparts, the MIJ looked like it might etc.
I talk about the vintage modified, which was 55mm or so.

[jorri]

Hosco is good quality otherwise though. I didnt initially find their site and a few sellers were listing 9.5", an odd one listed correctly at 7.25 so i assumed that one was incorrdt