Stretching strings - have we always been doing this wrong?

[alexpigment]

I try not to over-think it. I tune the guitar up, bend each string by 2-3 semitones a bunch of times somewhere near the 12th fret, tune up then repeat until it becomes stable. It usually settles in 3-4 cycles, depending on how nicely i wrapped the string around the post.

That's actually a very important detail at the end there, and I suppose I didn't think to mention it. The wraps have to be perfect for sure; no overlaps of strings - just each wrap spiraling down underneath each the previous one. Overlapping wraps bring a whole different aspect to this, and I have no idea how long those would take to settle, particularly for the wound strings.

[alexpigment]

[SEE TIMTAM'S POST]

You threw in some extra scientific words, but you got to the heart of what I was saying on my original post. If the strings don't stretch inherently (which is up for debate), the only places 'stretching' would make a difference are either at the tuning posts or where a bend occurs. And barring some extreme geometries, those bends at the bridge and nut should 'settle' fairly instantly.

[cestlamort]

I've always stretched my strings, if only to address any slack in the winds at the tuner end and maybe straighten out whatever kinks at ball end (and, for Rickenbacker cruddy tailpieces, watch the strings all too often fly out of the slots).
Does stretching strings increase tuning stability sooner? Definitely
Does it shorten string life? I can't say
Have I broken strings by stretching them? Sure, but rarely. (They may have been defectively anyway (?) Better to break at home than on stage).

[MattK]

The high E string doesn't have wraps, so it's not going to be stretching in the sense of the core and wraps moving in relation to each other. Due to its small diameter, it also seems to be the most likely string to slip or reshape its bend on the tuning post, and this is increasingly the case with smaller string gauges. The 'kink' you make as it goes down into a vintage Fender style tuning post always seems a bit malleable, and sometimes it even pulls up a bit from the post hole during those initial wraps.

Just poke a toothpick in the hole after you've seated and kinked the string, it will lock it in place during tuning.

[DeathJag]

String Stretcha Revised

This dude invented a tool to use when he's guitar teching on tours, apparently he had great success with this. I got one and I do use it on the extremely rare instance that I break a string. Seems to do what it's supposed to.

[OffYourFace]

String Stretcha Revised

This dude invented a tool to use when he's guitar teching on tours, apparently he had great success with this. I got one and I do use it on the extremely rare instance that I break a string. Seems to do what it's supposed to.

i have one of those, another tech gave me one while on the road. I didn't like it at first but then I got used to it and it made stretching much faster. I haven't touched it since I quit touring though. But it was handy when I needed to restring 15-20 guitars a day.

It's like having one of those cheap plastic string winders. You don't really need it but it's kinda handy?

[alexpigment]

Just poke a toothpick in the hole after you've seated and kinked the string, it will lock it in place during tuning.

That's an interesting tip! I'll definitely try that out next time.

[alexpigment]

String Stretcha Revised

This dude invented a tool to use when he's guitar teching on tours, apparently he had great success with this. I got one and I do use it on the extremely rare instance that I break a string. Seems to do what it's supposed to.

That tool essentially does what I used to do with my thumb and index finger (albeit my method was lateral). On the other hand, did you happen to see timtam's post where this type of tool can screw up strings?

[tqi]

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[DeathJag]

did you happen to see timtam's post where this type of tool can screw up strings?

Oh yeah I don't think you're supposed to be too vigorous with the Stretcha. Timtam's great information about the plastic stuff was not something I'd considered at that level, and it's so cool to read about it. I used to just yank the strings outward and with my fingers, up and down the fretboard. After breaking several new strings I switched to what you're talking about, with my thumb and finger. Then I saw thus tool and splurged. It was really fun to pull them outward with my fingers, but I always went too far.

[GreenKnee]

I find 90% of the stretch is in the wind at the ball end. Ever since I started soldering the winds of my plain strings I find they stretch out MUCH quicker, a couple of tugs out at the 12th fret and they're pretty much done.
Can't remember the last time I swapped a wound string though, flats just last a very long time. Last time I swapped some wound strings was because they had worn where they touch the frets and intonation was near impossible.

[alexpigment]

I find 90% of the stretch is in the wind at the ball end. Ever since I started soldering the winds of my plain strings I find they stretch out MUCH quicker, a couple of tugs out at the 12th fret and they're pretty much done.

That's interesting. Does this seem to affect the high E the most? I know that high E strings unwinding at the ball end on offset trems is a fairly common problem. Also, what brand strings do you use out of curiosity?

[GreenKnee]

I find it affects all 3 plain strings (I use a plain G) equally. I swapped my plain strings on Thursday before a gig on Friday night - gave them all 3 or 4 tugs at the 12th fret, retuned, then pulled up on the vibrato arm as high as it will go 3 or 4 times to stretch all the strings at the same time. After the vibrato pull all 6 strings were just a cent or 2 flat and after tuning again all was stable and solid.

I use D'Addario strings, ECG23 flatwounds and use their plain steel single strings for swapping the plains as and when required. I carry around a few single NYXL strings as backup because they come presoldered but I can't tell any difference between them and the plain steel except for the price and solder...

[jorri]

I just pull away from the body, retune anf repeat the process until they don't detune when streched. The lower strings a lot more. I push down each side of saddles and nut but imo that is more of an intonation issue than detuning issue that gets fixed, especially on basses.

I am surprised you find no difference with NYXL, they have remarkably different tone and last 3x as long, i hated the regular daddarios then nyxl became my favourite...but, maybe this is only the wound strings.

[jorri]

I find it affects all 3 plain strings (I use a plain G) equally. I swapped my plain strings on Thursday before a gig on Friday night - gave them all 3 or 4 tugs at the 12th fret, retuned, then pulled up on the vibrato arm as high as it will go 3 or 4 times to stretch all the strings at the same time. After the vibrato pull all 6 strings were just a cent or 2 flat and after tuning again all was stable and solid.

I use D'Addario strings, ECG23 flatwounds and use their plain steel single strings for swapping the plains as and when required. I carry around a few single NYXL strings as backup because they come presoldered but I can't tell any difference between them and the plain steel except for the price and solder...

I don't know if the plain ones do, but the wound ones have an absolutely remarkable difference. There's subjectively a clear tonal difference, and they appear to last about three times as long, so it justifies the price, as i didn't even like dadarrio standard nickel before, but I think it may well be the windings that are the only different part....if the steel alloy is carbon stell, maybe that's not relevant if the nickel-plated-steel windings are advertised as ALSO being different on the site, actually the main thing that's different sonically and tuning-stability-wise, who knows, but saying that i'm sure i had some corrode from the standard set even if they don't inherently sound different on the plains, but i don't think that's ever happened with the NY ones.