Fretting Tools: what should I get?

[GilmourD]

So, I want to expand my capabilities and get into fretting. Mentally, I get the mechanics of the process, but I haven't had the tools to actually practice on anything, even though I have a couple el cheapo necks sitting on a shelf in dire need of fretwork.

Now, Amazon might not be the best place to get everything but it's a good place to collect a wishlist.

What I'm hoping for is that those of you who are in the know could give me some feedback on what I put on my list and what I might be missing. Also, if there's a better place to get anything, I'm all ears!

Tom's Guitar Tech Tool Wishlist

[MattK]

My thinking would be to get yourself a nice flat beam (even an offcut of kitchen countertop) and some decent sandpaper and try on some old shitty necks - then buy tools as you find the need for them. I personally doubt $200 plus on nut slot files is worth it for anything less than a pro shop - a fine tapered round needle file and a set of welding tip cleaners will cut any nut slot you need.
Honestly a few hours watching YouTube videos will probably give you a good feel for how you’d do it and what you need. I’ve followed an Insta account @shpachukk who’s a Ukrainian luthier, she tackles fret jobs and fingerboard replacements which make me gasp a little, but beautifully documented videos which give you a real feel for the work. Seems like a soldering iron and a fret nipper are the number one requirements!

[GilmourD]

My thinking would be to get yourself a nice flat beam (even an offcut of kitchen countertop) and some decent sandpaper and try on some old shitty necks - then buy tools as you find the need for them. I personally doubt $200 plus on nut slot files is worth it for anything less than a pro shop - a fine tapered round needle file and a set of welding tip cleaners will cut any nut slot you need.
Honestly a few hours watching YouTube videos will probably give you a good feel for how you’d do it and what you need. I’ve followed an Insta account @shpachukk who’s a Ukrainian luthier, she tackles fret jobs and fingerboard replacements which make me gasp a little, but beautifully documented videos which give you a real feel for the work. Seems like a soldering iron and a fret nipper are the number one requirements!

I've actually had a set of these nut files for... almost 20 years, now, and I've been finding myself doing a good bit of nut work and thinking they leave a little to be desired.

To be clear, this stuff is an escalation of where I currently am. I do guitar repair as a side hustle but there are clearly things I don't have the equipment to do. There's only so much overlap between computer technician tools and guitar repair tools (of which there is actually a surprisingly large overlap), but I want to move to the next step up.

I'm also curious what everybody's experience is. I find that sometimes there's some tools that have been made and they're a solution to a problem that doesn't exist, so I'm looking for feedback on specific tools.

[timtam]

"Fretting"would normally mean fret insertion (replacement). But do you actually mean fret leveling of existing frets, since there's only a few tools in the Amazon list you linked for inserting new frets ?

In any case, for fret replacement, the 3-Peaks pliers (re-sold by Stewmac - in the Amazon list) are widely regarded as the best/easiest for fret removal (along with a soldering iron for loosening any fret glue). Look at recommendations for fret cutters - some are good, some are junk (eg re-badged general purpose cutters that often barely work on frets). Fret insertion was historically done with a hammer, but it's not hard to add a fret caul to an inexpensive arbor press already with a drilled shaft (or buy the expensive Stewmac one). A fret beveling file files the fret ends flush, finished with a fret end file.

For basic fret leveling, you need a fret rocker (to verify that you need to level all the frets, when there's more than a few that need it), a notched straight edge (to set the neck straight with the truss rod before leveling), a long dead-flat leveling beam with stick-on sandpaper (eg 400 grit), a fret crowning file, low-tack tape to protect the fretboard, graduated sandpaper grits to remove file marks, and fret polishing compound.

For fret leveling work it used to be that you had to buy different tools from different places, or try to select one tool in each category from a vendor's multiple choices. I like what Music Nomad has done to make made that process simpler, in having only one tool for most jobs (and youtube videos showing how to use them) - fret rocker/action gauge, notched/flat straight edge for multiple scale lengths, leveling beam. They don't have a fret crowing file (yet ?), but I doubt they'd come up with anything better than the Stewmac Z-file (centered or original; 300 grit) - that's easily the most foolproof tool anyway (expensive, and I usually avoid SM for that reason, but the Z-file is worth it).

For nut work, many people got by for years with the dual-sided Hosco files like the ones you linked (beware of cheap Amazon ones that look similar but are junk). The higher-end 'pro' files for nut slot work are very expensive. The Music Nomad nut files have changed that.

There is also now a huge collection of cheap guitar tools on Amazon/ebay/aliexpress. A very small number of them are as good as the much more expensive ones from known sources, but I would say it's almost impossible for a novice to pick which are good and which are worthless junk (some of which will damage your guitar, like poor fret crowning files). But the string action gauges, fret rockers, notched straight edges are mostly OK.

[GilmourD]

"Fretting"would normally mean fret insertion (replacement). But do you actually mean fret leveling of existing frets, since there's only a few tools in the Amazon list you linked for inserting new frets ?

In any case, for fret replacement, the 3-Peaks pliers (re-sold by Stewmac - in the Amazon list) are widely regarded as the best/easiest for fret removal (along with a soldering iron for loosening any fret glue). Look at recommendations for fret cutters - some are good, some are junk (eg re-badged general purpose cutters that often barely work on frets). Fret insertion was historically done with a hammer, but it's not hard to add a fret caul to an inexpensive arbor press already with a drilled shaft (or buy the expensive Stewmac one). A fret beveling file files the fret ends flush, finished with a fret end file.

For basic fret leveling, you need a fret rocker (to verify that you need to level all the frets, when there's more than a few that need it), a notched straight edge (to set the neck straight with the truss rod before leveling), a long dead-flat leveling beam with stick-on sandpaper (eg 400 grit), a fret crowning file, low-tack tape to protect the fretboard, graduated sandpaper grits to remove file marks, and fret polishing compound.

For fret leveling work it used to be that you had to buy different tools from different places, or try to select one tool in each category from a vendor's multiple choices. I like what Music Nomad has done to make made that process simpler, in having only one tool for most jobs (and youtube videos showing how to use them) - fret rocker/action gauge, notched/flat straight edge for multiple scale lengths, leveling beam. They don't have a fret crowing file (yet ?), but I doubt they'd come up with anything better than the Stewmac Z-file (centered or original; 300 grit) - that's easily the most foolproof tool anyway (expensive, and I usually avoid SM for that reason, but the Z-file is worth it).

For nut work, many people got by for years with the dual-sided Hosco files like the ones you linked (beware of cheap Amazon ones that look similar but are junk). The higher-end 'pro' files for nut slot work are very expensive. The Music Nomad nut files have changed that.

There is also now a huge collection of cheap guitar tools on Amazon/ebay/aliexpress. A very small number of them are as good as the much more expensive ones from known sources, but I would say it's almost impossible for a novice to pick which are good and which are worthless junk (some of which will damage your guitar, like poor fret crowning files). But the string action gauges, fret rockers, notched straight edges are mostly OK.

Oh, I definitely want to go whole hog on the fretting tools. I'd like to be able to do anything repair- and service-wise. Hell, if I owned my house and had a place for the tools I'd just start building from scratch.

I do have a few tools, like the FretGuru crowning file and the StewMac fret end file for a few minor things I've had to fix in the past, but clearly need more to do the job properly.

I have one neck in particular I want to practice on since I'm not likely to actually use it (a Squier Strat neck somebody put a Floyd nut on), and I'll probably find other cheap necks to hone my skills on, but eventually I'd like to be good enough to offer it as a service.

Thanks for the guidance!

[Scout]

It’s a large leap from guitar setup to fret leveling to fret replacement, you should be able to confidently
do a full setup with leveling before you try to tackle refretting. The tools and skills needed for setup
will be used for a refret with additions, of course , there are so many variables that it’s easier to see
what you need as you get into it. Watch some videos , that will help.

[GilmourD]

It’s a large leap from guitar setup to fret leveling to fret replacement, you should be able to confidently
do a full setup with leveling before you try to tackle refretting. The tools and skills needed for setup
will be used for a refret with additions, of course , there are so many variables that it’s easier to see
what you need as you get into it. Watch some videos , that will help.

Absolutely true, but definitely all skills I want to hone. Obviously I want to be able to do it all confidently before doing it for anybody else and I'll need the tools to practice.

Could probably count videos as tools, if you have any recommendations for those.

[Scout]

twoodfrd has a you tube channel and a pleasant manner, it might give you some insight.

[ThePearDream]

I'd essentially second timtam's entire post. I'll also second the idea that fret leveling and re-fretting are separate tasks, with some overlapping tools and skills. I developed my skills and toolkit for leveling, dressing, etc. first before doing attempting a re-fret, which I was then able to level, dress, etc.

Knowing that you are in NJ, I'd recommend looking at Philadelphia Luthier Supplies for as much stuff as possible. They have better prices than StewMac and ship out really fast.

For fret leveling, dressing, I'd want:
-Flat beam 18-24" long, I have an Aluminum one, with two flat faces and use two grits of sandpaper.
-Big colored sharpie
- Crowning file(s), I like a classic 3-corner these days, but want to try that diamond stuff.
- fret end dressing file
- fret end bevelling file, might as well get this now, so you can use it to fix up over-long frets and fret sprout.
- fret eraser, I have 400 grit only, first polishing step after filing.
- micro mesh polishing paper, like Stew Mac sells.
- buffing wheels and metal polish.

For actual fret jobs:
- Philly Luthier has a great price on an arbor press and radiused inserts, and also sells a bunch of sizes of fretwire, Pre-cut and radiused, in a set of 25, for $10.
- neck support
- fretting hammer
- fret slot cleaning tool
- small triangle file
- fret pliers: cutters, removers, etc.
- Radius sanding beams ($$$)

For nuts, I have the StewMac files. I started with 6, sized to work with my favorite size strings. A few years back, that was probably $75 and a birthday gift to myself. I gradually add more as needed and have most of them now. Beyond that, and a 1/8" nut slot seating file I use on scratch builds, I don't have any special nut shaping files yet.

I would really like the newer string spacing guide, with the slots for a pencil to fit. Mine doesn't have that, and I can struggle with transferring the marks. That came out, like two weeks after I bought mine.

- a narrow saw to start the slots. I have a 0.010" kerf saw from SM for this.

-lots of sandpaper, 120 - 2000+ grit. I like to make my nuts shiny and glossy. Use that micro mesh stuff here too.

- feeler gauges for fine tuning slot height

[GilmourD]

I'd essentially second timtam's entire post. I'll also second the idea that fret leveling and re-fretting are separate tasks, with some overlapping tools and skills. I developed my skills and toolkit for leveling, dressing, etc. first before doing attempting a re-fret, which I was then able to level, dress, etc.

Knowing that you are in NJ, I'd recommend looking at Philadelphia Luthier Supplies for as much stuff as possible. They have better prices than StewMac and ship out really fast.

For fret leveling, dressing, I'd want:
-Flat beam 18-24" long, I have an Aluminum one, with two flat faces and use two grits of sandpaper.
-Big colored sharpie
- Crowning file(s), I like a classic 3-corner these days, but want to try that diamond stuff.
- fret end dressing file
- fret end bevelling file, might as well get this now, so you can use it to fix up over-long frets and fret sprout.
- fret eraser, I have 400 grit only, first polishing step after filing.
- micro mesh polishing paper, like Stew Mac sells.
- buffing wheels and metal polish.

For actual fret jobs:
- Philly Luthier has a great price on an arbor press and radiused inserts, and also sells a bunch of sizes of fretwire, Pre-cut and radiused, in a set of 25, for $10.
- neck support
- fretting hammer
- fret slot cleaning tool
- small triangle file
- fret pliers: cutters, removers, etc.
- Radius sanding beams ($$$)

For nuts, I have the StewMac files. I started with 6, sized to work with my favorite size strings. A few years back, that was probably $75 and a birthday gift to myself. I gradually add more as needed and have most of them now. Beyond that, and a 1/8" nut slot seating file I use on scratch builds, I don't have any special nut shaping files yet.

I would really like the newer string spacing guide, with the slots for a pencil to fit. Mine doesn't have that, and I can struggle with transferring the marks. That came out, like two weeks after I bought mine.

- a narrow saw to start the slots. I have a 0.010" kerf saw from SM for this.

-lots of sandpaper, 120 - 2000+ grit. I like to make my nuts shiny and glossy. Use that micro mesh stuff here too.

- feeler gauges for fine tuning slot height

I'm going to have to take a deeper look at this later, hopefully tonight. Last day of work before vacation so of course everybody's needy.

[ThePearDream]

Just felt like adding a bit about sandpaper. I've found that for finer grits (600+), it works well for me to divide a sheet of sandpaper into 12 pieces, and store them in something like one of these, making sure each piece is labeled and has its own tab. These small, not quite square, but 3"-ish inches each way sheets, work great wrapped around the small block eraser I also store in there. Oh, I have one for my different grits of micro mesh sheet too.

I try not to save too many smaller, or half used bits of sandpaper, but when I do, they have a place to go.

[Jaguar018]

I like to make my nuts shiny and glossy.

Don't we all.

[eternal learner]

I've been doing level n crowns and re-frets for a while as a hobby, I strongly suggest buying a cheap knocked around copy type guitar to practise the work on. I had an extended loan of two beaters I referred to as "mule" guitars, one was a 60's Japanese solid body laying unused for over 40 years that was the victim of some clown's bastardry and a Squier Strat literally pulled out of a dumpster. I didnt feel stressed in using these two guitars for learning fret work and re-fretting on and of course the owner was delighted, mistakes were made but just a matter of doing the job again. As ive mention in these threads before, I now use a metal beam with sandpaper for the levelling and for crowning even though I had an expensive diamond fret file tool thing, I went back to the three corner file and now have about four or more of those with nice little wooden handles I made myself, the basic 3 corner file is cheap is cheap to buy at a hardware store, dress off the corners, shape a custom handle in twenty minutes you have a superb tool.

[alwinvrm]

Since it is a matter of getting a feel, I would suggest a step by step approach in order not to overreach and give yourself some time. 1) and 2) are interchangeable.

1) Almost every guitar, 250 or 2500 EUR/USD, need a nut adjustment. So nut files is an investment you have to make anyway, and you will get a feel for set up and nut / fret board interplay. I have my 2 sided Hoscos for years, but welder files etc. may work fine.

2) Levelling a board with high frets that buzz. You need a sanding beam of max 15 cm, a notched ruler, and a fret rocker of minimum 10 to 15 EUR/USD. A cheap rocker, no experience and long beam are a recipe for disaster. The China rockers are not straight. A beam can be made at home if you a flat surface like a polished granite slab to make a wooden beam true. Thin 2 sided tape and 400 wet/dry paper and you are good to go. Watch a lot of YouTube and start slowly. Identify 1 or 2 high frets that buzz and try to solve that.

3) Start a refret on a throw away neck. You get better with experience and you don't want to mess a good neck.

Good luck!

[timtam]

...
2) Levelling a board with high frets that buzz. You need a sanding beam of max 15 cm, a notched ruler, and a fret rocker of minimum 10 to 15 EUR/USD. A cheap rocker, no experience and long beam are a recipe for disaster. The China rockers are not straight. A beam can be made at home if you a flat surface like a polished granite slab to make a wooden beam true. Thin 2 sided tape and 400 wet/dry paper and you are good to go. Watch a lot of YouTube and start slowly. Identify 1 or 2 high frets that buzz and try to solve that.

There are different approaches to fret leveling. Indeed look at lots of youtube and decide what seems to work for most people. Personally I think a long beam of about 450 mm (45cm) is optimal (25mm wide). Shorter beams have their applications (eg for "fall-away" at the end of the board, when required), but by definition they will tend to follow any undulations in the frets/fretboard more so than impose flatness on the frets over the whole neck (having used a notched straight to set the fretboard flat with the truss rod prior to leveling). A long beam can sit on all the frets at once, and be moved by less that one fret's separation on each movement, so it remains in contact with all the frets (so all frets get the same number of passes).

I guess I've had good luck with Chinese fret rockers, with flatness verified in various ways (placing one against another, surface plate, etc). If you are going to level all the frets at once, knowing exactly where frets are high/low before you start is less of an issue - you just want to know that there are enough non-level frets to warrant doing the whole neck, and that their location correlates with the buzzing issues you are trying to solve. And then having marked all the frets prior to leveling, their remaining marks will tell you on which frets the leveling beam has done most of its work. Identifying exactly which frets needs leveling is more of an issue for "spot-leveling" of individual frets, although that can be a fraught process ... that a lot of techs avoid. But you can verify fret rocker findings in a number of ways (eg rotate the rocker around 180 degs vertically and make sure it still rocks on the frets in question in the same way, use two rockers, use two edges on the same rocker if fret separation allows, etc).

One thing to be aware of with youtube is that many techs/luthiers devised/learned their preferred approaches decades ago, before the advent of youtube/forums (to see how others do it) and the easy availability of a range of different tools. An example is the three-corner file for fret crowning. That was the standard tool/way that everyone learned several decades ago. It takes practice to acquire the skill to use it well and with reasonable speed. Whereas nowadays there are more advanced tools like the Stewmac Z-file that are near foolproof, even for a novice. But a lot of those "old masters" have never tried it, because they have no need to. Likewise you will see many different variations of leveling beams. In any case, what works for those "old masters" may not be the best approach for a novice.