Second post here, so once again: sorry if I step on forum customs. Still getting used to this place.
I've often heard you can't install a mute on MIM jaguars or American ones without the vintage bridge.
I've suspected this isn't the case, however, as long as you have a few power tools. And after doing some research it seems I was partially right: you can use a uni-bit (step bit) to carefully ream out the holes on the mute to fit a mastery.
However, for it to install easily you need an American jag because it has the proper screw hole placements on its pickguard to attach it. Mine does not have those holes.
Nonetheless, I think that with some careful layout and pilot hole drilling, I could make it work (on my MIM jag with single coils--not enough space on the other one since it has a bridge humbucker). Problem is, I've never done this on a guitar.
So my questions are:
1) Am I wrong? Is there something I'm not seeing under the pickguard that would prevent this from working (obvi I'll look before drilling, but thought maybe someone might have prior knowledge)?
2) What would be potential pitfalls/things to look out for?
And
3) What procedures/methods do you follow when drilling new pilot holes into a guitar for screws? I know I'm probably overthinking it, but I've never been a wood/carpentry guy (I work with steel pipe for a living).
Appreciate the help if anyone knows anything.
Jaguar mute install on a MIM 7.25" Vintera Jag
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Catsandcatsandcats
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Moo-Stang
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Re: Jaguar mute install on a MIM 7.25" Vintera Jag
GGJaguar posted he added a mute in this thread just last month (2nd post):
viewtopic.php?t=122322
He might be able to help
viewtopic.php?t=122322
He might be able to help
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hexes
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Re: Jaguar mute install on a MIM 7.25" Vintera Jag
page 1 and 3 of my thread for adding a mute: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=118142&hilit=creamsicle#p1654468
step bit for widening mute holes can work. for others not metal savvy, i’d use machine oil for lubricant and step through both sides of the mute to remove any burrs/edges. you’ll need to go wider than the posts so the holes clear the posts when the mute is engaged or disengaged.
3) cheap and easy template: $10 AVRI spec pickguard clone with mute holes drilled.
remove the bridge and pickguard, put some blue painters tape down where all holes will be drilled between the thimbles. install your pickguard template with a couple screws, then mark your two screw holes and your larger plunger hole through the pickguard onto your tape.
then remove the pickguard, tap your hole centers with an awl or sharpened nail, then commence drilling. for the plunger, go very slow when hogging out the depth. i cannot recommend a drill press enough for this to ensure level drilling, AND the ability to run the press in reverse helps. if no drill press, something like this can help with a hand drill: https://www.milescraft.com/product/drillblock/
use fresh wood bits. start your pilots with 1/32 or 1/16, go IN REVERSE, matching the depth of your mute mounting screws accounting for pickguard thickness into the body. step up with bits until your largest bit matches the inner diameter of the screw, not the threads. when screwing those into the body, lubricate your screws with some candle (or bees) wax.
if NOT using a pickguard as a template, just measure the mute holes with calipers and mark your centers on the tape on the body. you COULD do your pilots for the screw holes and center of the plunger through the pickguard just barely into the wood, but for the full size plunger hole I’d personally remove the pickguard and do the below instruction:
on my player jag, i used a brand new forstner bit the same diameter as my plunger, then GENTLY IN REVERSE for the plunger to not chip out the finish until i got into the wood , did half inch at first, then checked depth with the plunger in in 1/16th increments. i aimed for having my plunger flush with the top of the pickguard before being compressed making sure the spring was centered in the plunger.
after that, you can make a traced template with painters tape of your bridge posts, mounting screw holes, and plunger hole. transfer that to your pickguard and drill out that plunger hole in the pickguard.
step bit for widening mute holes can work. for others not metal savvy, i’d use machine oil for lubricant and step through both sides of the mute to remove any burrs/edges. you’ll need to go wider than the posts so the holes clear the posts when the mute is engaged or disengaged.
3) cheap and easy template: $10 AVRI spec pickguard clone with mute holes drilled.
remove the bridge and pickguard, put some blue painters tape down where all holes will be drilled between the thimbles. install your pickguard template with a couple screws, then mark your two screw holes and your larger plunger hole through the pickguard onto your tape.
then remove the pickguard, tap your hole centers with an awl or sharpened nail, then commence drilling. for the plunger, go very slow when hogging out the depth. i cannot recommend a drill press enough for this to ensure level drilling, AND the ability to run the press in reverse helps. if no drill press, something like this can help with a hand drill: https://www.milescraft.com/product/drillblock/
use fresh wood bits. start your pilots with 1/32 or 1/16, go IN REVERSE, matching the depth of your mute mounting screws accounting for pickguard thickness into the body. step up with bits until your largest bit matches the inner diameter of the screw, not the threads. when screwing those into the body, lubricate your screws with some candle (or bees) wax.
if NOT using a pickguard as a template, just measure the mute holes with calipers and mark your centers on the tape on the body. you COULD do your pilots for the screw holes and center of the plunger through the pickguard just barely into the wood, but for the full size plunger hole I’d personally remove the pickguard and do the below instruction:
on my player jag, i used a brand new forstner bit the same diameter as my plunger, then GENTLY IN REVERSE for the plunger to not chip out the finish until i got into the wood , did half inch at first, then checked depth with the plunger in in 1/16th increments. i aimed for having my plunger flush with the top of the pickguard before being compressed making sure the spring was centered in the plunger.
after that, you can make a traced template with painters tape of your bridge posts, mounting screw holes, and plunger hole. transfer that to your pickguard and drill out that plunger hole in the pickguard.