1966 Vintage Jaguar restoration

[dinosaur]

Are you sure they are reissues? You can take them off and look for the markings on the plate there. They should be Kluson Double Lines and be marked, like this:

https://reverb.com/item/81925833-1966-f ... ith-screws

The vintage holes should be 8.8mm, and resissue Kluson Double Lines or the Gotohs should fit that without modification if you need replacements. Usually they will write vintage bushing size or similar. Modern bushing size is 10mm so avoid that.

But again if they are original try and work with them., of course.

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Yeah mine are original like those but badly corroded- yet the screws still turn and all. I also found my pegged was also factory pre-drilled for another style (The F tuner maybe? ), those holes get covered up by the Kluson Deluxe tuners installed. I've read elsewhere on this site Fender did that around '64- "66 or so as they transitioned from one style to another.

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Yeah ok sorry!

[MrSparkle]

Yeah mine are original like those but badly corroded- yet the screws still turn and all. I also found my pegged was also factory pre-drilled for another style (The F tuner maybe? ), those holes get covered up by the Kluson Deluxe tuners installed.

As above, there's three basic options.

A: Try and get your tuners repaired.

B: Try and find a set of vintage tuners in better condition.

C: Get some modern replacements.

I think your initial instinct for C is a reasonable one. Gotoh SD91 are pretty peak for aftermarket Klusons, but as Dino says you can still buy real Klusons as well (so you keep the KLUSON DELUXE branding on the back) and either should fit fine without additional drilling.

But then you should also try for A and get the originals refurbished. It takes a lot to destroy a tuner, and if yours are still turning, they should be repairable. Side note, don't give up on your bridge either! Run a Marr or a Staytrem while you find someone who can properly restore the original.

[lastlol]

I put Gotoh SD91 Relic on my vintage Jazzmaster (it had original tuners, they worked allright but felt a little loose) : almost same look, same color, feeling great, fit perfectly.

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Thanks!
BTW, I'm anticipating shimming the neck, when I get to that point, so I can raise the bridge to change the string break angle at the bridge, without raising the action too much; apparently a fix that is fairly common for Jags. Looking at the Stewmac shims. Anyone have experience with doing this? What degree seemed to work" .5? 1.0? Thx!

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Trying to rewire a vintage Jag- I have all the parts but they are all clipped and separated. I have wiring diagrams from Fender, Fralin and Seymour Duncan, but I'm puzzled in that none of them illustrate the correct orientation of the four slide switches. In other words, since the simple on/off switches can be installed on the plates one way, or 180 degrees the other way, how does one determine the correct position of the slides, in the switch, when matching the connections to the diagrams- on or off? I can easily tell on and off with a multimeter, but just what is assumed in these diagrams- with the switch in the on position or the off? And the switch in the lead/rhythm circuit, with 6 connections is even more confusing. I assume getting them backwards will not work well. Any help out there? Thanks!

[alexpigment]

The "up" position on the bridge pickup on/off switch has the hot wire coming from the bridge. The up position on the neck on/off has the wire coming from the rhythm circuit switch. The up position on the rhythm circuit switch has the wires that go to the roller pots. As long as you wire the neck/bridge/strangle block like a diagram, and you can see that the bridge pickup hot wire faces "up", you shouldn't really have to worry about the orientation of the other two switches (i.e. they're all going to be facing the right way). Hopefully this helps.

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Not understanding. I get the wiring connections, clearly shown in the diagrams- but what are the switch orientations? Any of the three switches on the 3 switch plate could be affixed to the mounting plate correctly, or 180 degrees off, resulting in, I would assume, a wiring mistake. Same with the rhythm circuit switch, it could be mounted to the plate either way too. Kinda hard to explain but that's my best.

[alexpigment]

Oh, I think I overcomplicated your question. It doesn't matter which way the switches go. It's the same until you wire them.

[fendermcfenderface1!]

I just want the lead pup 'on" position, and the neck pup "on" position, to match the "official" Fender switch position of "up" rather than "down"- which could happen if i install any of the three switches on the plate backwards, or spun 180 degrees. I've a 50/50 chance of getting it right so maybe should be happy with that.

[OffYourFace]

it's not that hard, if it's wrong just switch wires. If you're using the original switches there's only two lugs. Look at Reverb listings of vintage jaguars where they have pics inside the switch cavity. You'll the see the orientation.

[OffYourFace]

Also I've merged all 3 of your topics together. Please only add to this thread re: this guitar. Thank you

[fendermcfenderface1!]

Ok thanks, maybe I'm overthinking it. Yeah, the 3 slide switches I have have only two lugs not like the 6 I see in some schematics.

Another question- I'll ground the trem to the brass shielding plate with a naked wire from the plate to the top of the body, just under the trem with a staple, like the original- I'll even use the same staple. Is there a similar grounding of the bridge, maybe using a wire to one of the thimbles? I can't tell from the basket of parts.

Sorry if I'm violating some offset protocol with all these postings- they all seem like different issues to me.

[alexpigment]

Ok thanks, maybe I'm overthinking it. Yeah, the 3 slide switches I have have only two lugs not like the 6 I see in some schematics.

OK, that's an important detail. The reason why it doesn't matter about the orientation is that standard (reissue/modern) Jaguar switches aren't "on/off" switches but actually "on/on". In other words, there's no hardwired "off" position in the switch. Instead, the reason why the pickup is off is that there's nothing being sent to the output (middle lug). The wiring determines the "off" and "on" - not some inherent property of the switch. If you have switches with only 2 lugs, then the wiring schematics will absolutely not make any sense to you. I suspect that the ones you have are actually 3-lug switches, but with some of them clipped off, in which case the following might help as a visual aid:

https://reverb.com/item/83787844-origin ... -1965-1966