Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by BTL » Fri Jan 03, 2020 2:09 pm

Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Thu May 11, 2017 2:49 pm
Image
Requested by thisisnickpaige. HSS schematic with a rotary instead of a 5-way blade switch, volume, tone, neck always on switch, coil-split for humbucker, and a mystery tone filter (on the push-pull tone pot) that may or may not be in-line with the main signal like a Varitone.
This is awesome!

Is this the rotary switch represented in this schematic?

https://www.allparts.com/products/ep-49 ... ary-switch
Owner, Lowe Custom Guitars

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by oid » Sat Jan 04, 2020 4:16 am

abt_23 wrote:
Sun Dec 29, 2019 10:28 pm
Hello! First time poster here. Please forgive my probable ignorance as I am just learning about guitar wiring! I have a Jazzmaster question. I have an American Professional Jazzmaster that doesn’t have the rhythm circuit, it just has the tone and volume knobs and a 3-way selector. Would it be at all possible to achieve a sound that is the same as or similar to the rhythm circuit using a push pull pot/some modification of the existing wiring? I hope this question makes sense, thanks again in advance for your help and patience!
Perhaps, the schematic I posted here:
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/vie ... 0#p1589560

This gives you almost the entirety of the JM rhythm circuit, just lacks the second volume, but playing technique can adjust volume just as well. It would need an extra hole, but the rhythm/lead switch could be stuck on the push/pull instead of the bypass, but the bypass is fairly handy. Suppose you could also keep the switch and replace the push/pull with a second dual concentric to get the separate volumes, and you could even wire it in proper so when you switch to rhythm it puts you on the neck pickup. As drawn, you can just connect the output from your selector switch to the pickup hot wire and tie the pickup ground wire to ground, hook up the jack and you are off. As to the alternates I have mentioned, if one of those suits you more, either I or someone else here can draw it up for you if need be, you can probably manage it with a little effort though, I would give it a go, we can always check your work.

Just noticed the note on the bottom of that schematic is wrong, 1meg for the push/pull will give greater difference between rhythm and lead, but less difference between rhythm/lead and bypassed, 500k will give more difference on the bypass. I like the 500k here myself. Will need to fix that, used a comma instead of a foreword slash.
Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Fri Jan 03, 2020 12:51 am
but I've never been good with complicated blade switching...
Me either! Futuron to our rescue.
Last edited by oid on Sat Jan 04, 2020 4:49 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by oid » Sat Jan 04, 2020 4:25 am

BeeTL wrote:
Fri Jan 03, 2020 2:09 pm
Is this the rotary switch represented in this schematic?
That is 5 position, you want 6 position, specifically a 2P6T rotary switch.
Logic gates based on billiard-ball computer designs have also been made to operate using live soldier crabs of the species Mictyris guinotae in place of the billiard balls.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Futuron » Sun Jan 05, 2020 4:32 pm

Futuron wrote:
Fri Jan 03, 2020 4:21 am
You could do that with a super strat switch, it would only need 2 of the 4 'poles'.

How's this:

Both hot wires would go to volume, both ground wires would go to ground.
The switch's two 'common' connections would be one of the two centre wires from the neck humbucker, and one of the centre wires from the bridge humbucker. You could use either, but maybe you want a particular coil.

(eg Seymour Duncan colours)
Volume: BBlack & NBlack
Ground: BGreen & NGreen

Bridge Red
1: BWhite
2: BBlack
3: BWhite
4: BWhite
5: empty

Neck White
1: empty
2: NRed
3: NRed
4: NGreen
5: NRed
I FORGOT ABOUT THE TONE CONTROLS!!! :fp:

So you could use the other 2 sections of the switch for that. The 2 common terminals go to volume (or the specific pickup's hot wire, which is already connected to volume anyway), the selections go to the appropriate tone control:

Volume
1: BTone
2: BTone
3: BTone
4: BTone
5: empty

Volume
1: empty
2: NTone
3: NTone
4: NTone
5: NTone

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Mon Jan 06, 2020 2:17 am

BeeTL wrote:
Fri Jan 03, 2020 2:09 pm
Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Thu May 11, 2017 2:49 pm
Image
Requested by thisisnickpaige. HSS schematic with a rotary instead of a 5-way blade switch, volume, tone, neck always on switch, coil-split for humbucker, and a mystery tone filter (on the push-pull tone pot) that may or may not be in-line with the main signal like a Varitone.
This is awesome!

Is this the rotary switch represented in this schematic?

https://www.allparts.com/products/ep-49 ... ary-switch
Thanks Brad!!

This is probably what I would get. You'd technically only need a 5-pole rotary like you posted, but those double stack ones can be a royal pain in the ass to solder. I like the open Fender-style ones, where all the terminals are on the bottom.

Or something like this. The advantage to this style is that the number of throws on the switch is adjustable, so if you're only using 5 throws, there's a little pin in there that makes it so that the switch only rotates 5 positions. You don't have to deal with 6 positions if you're only using 5. The description doesn't say that, but I've bought switches from BYOC before and that's what it should be, unless they changed it. I know you can find them, though they're getting harder to find.
Pickup Switching Mad Scientist
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by BTL » Mon Jan 06, 2020 3:41 pm

Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Mon Jan 06, 2020 2:17 am
BeeTL wrote:
Fri Jan 03, 2020 2:09 pm
Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Thu May 11, 2017 2:49 pm
Image
Requested by thisisnickpaige. HSS schematic with a rotary instead of a 5-way blade switch, volume, tone, neck always on switch, coil-split for humbucker, and a mystery tone filter (on the push-pull tone pot) that may or may not be in-line with the main signal like a Varitone.
This is awesome!

Is this the rotary switch represented in this schematic?

https://www.allparts.com/products/ep-49 ... ary-switch
Thanks Brad!!

This is probably what I would get. You'd technically only need a 5-pole rotary like you posted, but those double stack ones can be a royal pain in the ass to solder. I like the open Fender-style ones, where all the terminals are on the bottom.

Or something like this. The advantage to this style is that the number of throws on the switch is adjustable, so if you're only using 5 throws, there's a little pin in there that makes it so that the switch only rotates 5 positions. You don't have to deal with 6 positions if you're only using 5. The description doesn't say that, but I've bought switches from BYOC before and that's what it should be, unless they changed it. I know you can find them, though they're getting harder to find.
Thanks!

My goal is to replicate 5-way Strat-style switching with a chicken head knob vs. a blade switch.

It needs to work on my control plate and fit in a standard Tele-style hotdog rout.
Owner, Lowe Custom Guitars

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Mon Jan 06, 2020 8:03 pm

BeeTL wrote:
Mon Jan 06, 2020 3:41 pm
My goal is to replicate 5-way Strat-style switching with a chicken head knob vs. a blade switch.

It needs to work on my control plate and fit in a standard Tele-style hotdog rout.
That sounds cool! The 6-position one I posted earlier should fit, but the 2-tier one posted earlier might not. I've got one of those 2-tier ones in my Tele and the middle lugs stick out pretty far...
Pickup Switching Mad Scientist
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by odieux fonzie » Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:08 pm

hi !
Thanks a lot to everybody helping in this forum !

I bought a soldering iron just a few days ago, and worked on two guitars, some cables etc... I begin to learn things about electronics, but for now I can only "execute" a diagram, not "invent" it.

I do a lot of noise/experimental music, and I begin to think about building my own instruments.
I don't know what it will be precisely, but it will surely consist in just a piece of wood with strings, wires, maybe springs etc...

I wanted to ask this : Imagine this piece of wood with different strings in different areas : I will amplify this using standard guitar pickups. Say it has 4 pickups in different places, and I want them to go all to the same jack output at the same time. How would you wire it ? If there is only one pickup, I know how to do it, but if the 4 pickups (it can be more or less) are "open" at the same time, should I wire them in parallel, in series, or what ?

Thanks a lot again !!

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Tue Jan 07, 2020 9:51 pm

I would probably wire them in parallel, each with their own on-off switch. Series would be ok, but seeing how each pickup is for a different string, I imagine that it would be darker or a little higher output. You could try it either way, but I think parallel would make more sense.

If you look at Jaguar or Bass VI wiring schematics, each pickup goes to its own on-off switch, and they all share a common output to the volume and tone pots, before going to the output jack. Something like that would work well for you I think.
Pickup Switching Mad Scientist
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by fraggy0117 » Fri Jan 17, 2020 10:25 am

I've been bouncing around ways to modify the Mustang 5.0 wiring scheme and still have in phase/out of phase options. What I've come up with involves 2 push/pull pots and the 2 standard mustang switches. If I could get another pair of eyes to look over my diagram to check for any issues, I'd appreciate it. I have some experience in guitar wiring but am by no means an expert.

The diagram:

Image

Looking through the circuit, I think the different positions give the following results:

Neck/Series/IP Neck Only
Neck/Series/OoP Neck Only (switch hot&grnd)
Neck/Parallel/IP Neck Only
Neck/Parallel/OoP Neck Only (switch hot&grnd)
Neck/Dark/IP Neck Only (no Dark Cap)
Neck/Dark/OoP Neck Only (switch ground, no dark)
Both/Series/IP Both in Phase Series (grounds at series switch)
Both/Series/OoP Both in Out of Phase Series
Both/Parallel/IP Both in Parallel In Phase
Both/Parallel/OoP Both in Parallel Out of Phase
Both/Dark/IP Neck Only, or OoP Series w/ bridge through cap?
Both/Dark/OoP Dead?
Bridge/Series/IP Both in Series
Bridge/Series/OoP Both in Out of Phase Series
Bridge/Parallel/IP Bridge Only
Bridge/Parallel/OoP Bridge Only
Bridge/Dark/IP Bridge only, hot through dark cap
Bridge/Dark/OoP Bridge only, hot through dark cap

Do you see any glaring issues or have any suggestions?

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Flurko » Mon Jan 20, 2020 4:34 am

Hi everyone,
back on here for another question !

I'm working on a series/parallel wiring I had earlier on my jazzmaster, and I'd like to add a piezo circuit.
Here's where I'm at in the drawing, how can I use the second slider switch to activate the piezo, and use the remaining knob as a blend ? The piezo would be fully independent from the main volume, I guess the piezo switch would do nothing if the blend is at zero, and would switch to 100% piezo if the main volume pot is at zero and the piezo volume at 100%.

I hope this is clear, thanks in advance !
Here's the drawing in progress (the tbx wiring is based on this https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/ ... rol_Part_1 ):

Image

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by mgeek » Fri Feb 07, 2020 1:50 pm

Shadoweclipse13 wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 6:55 am
mgeek wrote:
Wed Jul 17, 2019 4:10 am
Image
Mgeek, all done! The part with the rotary: the important thing is to make sure to make the jumpers from the first and third lugs to the second lug on the other pole, otherwise, you'll have both pickups on all the time.

Image
And an explanation of the switch just because.

As for the rotary part #, I'm not sure exactly, BUT, you'll want something that says "3 pole, 2-4 throw", because it'll have a little collar ring that stops the switch from going farther than the amount of throws you're using, i.e., no dead spots. You could technically use a 2P6T IF it can be adjustable for the throws. Small Bear has this one which I've used before to great effect.

I'll post these on the first thread page as well.
Hi! This has taken me ages, and having done some test setups, I'm looking to change the spec a little - would love your help if possible. *might* be able to figure it out myself based on the other diagrams, but not 100% confident

*edit*

Getting there with this- it's actually fun trying to figure the rest out for myself based on what you've drawn!

One thing- I couldn't get the inbetween setting to work, not sure why, though my switch is numbered 1-12 all round, rather than groups of four, so maybe it's a different type. (all the lugs and positions are the same). I sent both the hot wires to the corresponding lug, position wise, and after that didn't work (I got 'both') I tried all the rest with crocodile clips, and got similar results.

Currently got it set up as three pickups on the rotary switch, in four positions - Bridge/Neck/Other/Off, and just an on/off for the remaining pickup.

Sounds odd, but... it'll make sense when I'm done.
Last edited by mgeek on Mon Feb 17, 2020 2:15 am, edited 3 times in total.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Deadbe4r » Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:51 am

Created my own thread originally. Moved it here.

Hey Community,

I need some help with a Jag-Stang build I'm doing for my father's birthday. I'm using a hand made body and a Fender Mustang neck. The rest of the components are kind of a hodge-podge of parts I have lying around.

But......I'm having trouble getting the wiring sorted out.

Setup:

Fender Texas Special Strat single coil neck pickup.

Fender Hot Rod bridge humbucker. 4 wire plus bare/ground (kind of an odd fender unit, like a Diamondback but with lower output)

(2) volume pots
(1) master tone pot
(2) Mustang 3-way slider switches (on/on/on) these have 8 lugs.

The plan, as it stands now, is:

Slider switch towards the neck serve as the pickup selector neck/both/bridge
Silder towards bridge serve as a series/split/parallel switch for the humbucker.

I'd like to split to the North coil/slug coil on the humbucker.
I've checked the polarity and phase of the pickups and they seem like they will play nice and give me hum cancelling when the bridge is split and the neck pickup is active

Single coil and bridge pickup would be wired parallel.

I was a CAD designer for a long time and have sketched up my best effort.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

SEE MY NEXT POST FOR REVISED DIAGRAM
Last edited by Deadbe4r on Fri Feb 14, 2020 7:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Futuron » Thu Feb 13, 2020 4:21 pm

If you also connect the red wire to ground (or either of the two lugs it's connected to) you are well on your way. I think everything else will work. VVTs do my head in a bit

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Re: Shadoweclipse13's Master Schematic Page!

Post by Deadbe4r » Fri Feb 14, 2020 7:00 am

Futuron wrote:
Thu Feb 13, 2020 4:21 pm
If you also connect the red wire to ground (or either of the two lugs it's connected to) you are well on your way. I think everything else will work. VVTs do my head in a bit
Thank you for the input! What I can't tell is which coil the split will go to, is the way I have it drawn going to split to the North coil, I dunno, I just copied it from someone else diagram. Lol.

SEE MY NEXT POST FOR REVISION 3
Last edited by Deadbe4r on Mon Feb 17, 2020 8:18 am, edited 1 time in total.

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