T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

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T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Fender Addiction » Sat Aug 01, 2020 6:54 pm

Please bear with me, my posts tend to be long, I'll post a TL;DR in this first paragraph for those who wish to skip the lengthy read: If I have a steep break angle across a Jazzmaster style bridge and am using a vintage style Jazzmaster bridge, would the Mastery be a better option? Everything I have read screams that I should do this, but $175? I'd like at least one person to tell me this is my best shot at dealing with my issues. And let me say, the problems are not severe, just annoying, and only present when I get heavy on the rhythm.

Sounds amazing, by the way. I mean, I certainly expected it to sound good. I didn't put in low quality parts, but it sounds far better than I expected.

For those interested, review pics and read on!

I recently built a guitar body from a block of mesquite and used epoxy as a filler (many voids) as well as a a means to thicken the body, as I ended up planing the blanks down to less than 1.5 inches.

Before there is a discussion of "should mesquite be used?" or "is it a good tone wood?" etc..., let me say, this was an experiment, not something I was planning on producing for public consumption or as a means of anything other than learning. Also, probably not fair to do a "tone comparison"... the body is made of mesquite and epoxy, the neck is wenge, it has a P90 in the neck, a Jazzmaster bridge/tailpiece setup, 250k pots and a push/pull tone that switches the parallel wiring of the bridge/neck combo to series. Not sure what exactly I would compare it to :)

And I did learn: 1) mesquite is extremely hard wood, and sands beautifully; 2) mesquite is extremely heavy, the guitar comes in at just under 12 lbs total. I have decided that I will again make a mesquite guitar, but I will hollow out the areas that do not house electronics. Definitely a 1/4" top in mesquite, but he body: either mesquite or mahogany... not a decision I have to make right now, though.

Anyway, to my question. I made this one in the Telecaster style, but I am asking this here because there are so many offset experts here. My question is: due to how close the tailpiece is to the bridge (and this is a Jazzmaster tailpiece and Jazzmaster bridge), the steep break angle either causes the back side of a couple strings to hit the intonation screw heads, or if I adjust the angle of the bridge toward the tailpiece, some strings hit the tips of the intonation screws. Turning the bridge around with the screw heads on the pickup side of the house is even worse. I'm wondering if the Mastery Bridge is the right one to solve this problem. Doesn't it handle a steep break angle across the saddles better than the vintage JM style? And aren't the intonation screws offset from the strings?

I've read and reviewed the Mastery, and I guess I am just looking for validation, hopefully from someone who has solved a similar issue using it. Before it was an option, I thought it was a great idea, but now that I got the "okay"... I want to at least have someone besides me think this is a good idea. Unless there's a compelling reason not to, I'm likely to order the bridge before the end of the weekend. Thanks for any input you wish to offer.

Note: one of this pics shows a buzz stop... that was the first thing I removed due to the string angle issue.

These are the two I am using for my question:
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These are the progress pics if anyone is/was interested:
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by timtam » Sat Aug 01, 2020 9:05 pm

Fender Addiction wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 6:54 pm
My question is: due to how close the tailpiece is to the bridge (and this is a Jazzmaster tailpiece and Jazzmaster bridge), the steep break angle either causes the back side of a couple strings to hit the intonation screw heads, or if I adjust the angle of the bridge toward the tailpiece, some strings hit the tips of the intonation screws. Turning the bridge around with the screw heads on the pickup side of the house is even worse.
Nice build !

It looks like you may have a metric bridge ? Those have 18mm M3 intonation screws. MIA bridges' imperial screws are ~15.9mm. If yours measure at 18mm, the first part of the solution is to switch to 16mm M3 screws (easily found on ebay) - that reduces the chances of fouling the strings. The second part of the solution (which works on metric and imperial bridges) often involves raising the bridge and lowering the saddles a tad, such that the action remains the same - that results in screws that are not angled upwards as much, so also less likely to foul the strings at the front. That may not be possible in your case if the strings are instead hitting the screw heads at the back. In any case it is a bit of a dance, as the strings may also risk fouling the front/back edge of the bridge plate. If the screw head fouling remains after step one, you may instead need to lower the bridge / raise the saddles (then possible due to the shorter screws ?).

Is the neck pocket shimmed ? If so, what is the shim taper angle ? Can you post a side pic of the bridge height ?

The angle of the bridge should always be vertical. That is dependent on good string-saddle friction (string gauge=>string tension, neck angle/bridge height =>string break angle).

EDIT: I just saw the buzz stop in one pic. Is that now gone ?

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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Mechanical Birds » Sat Aug 01, 2020 10:05 pm

TL;DR but those pieces of wood together were like. Perfect match Venom face which was cool

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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Fender Addiction » Sun Aug 02, 2020 4:13 am

timtam wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 9:05 pm
Fender Addiction wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 6:54 pm
My question is: due to how close the tailpiece is to the bridge (and this is a Jazzmaster tailpiece and Jazzmaster bridge), the steep break angle either causes the back side of a couple strings to hit the intonation screw heads, or if I adjust the angle of the bridge toward the tailpiece, some strings hit the tips of the intonation screws. Turning the bridge around with the screw heads on the pickup side of the house is even worse.
Nice build !

It looks like you may have a metric bridge ? Those have 18mm M3 intonation screws. MIA bridges' imperial screws are ~15.9mm. If yours measure at 18mm, the first part of the solution is to switch to 16mm M3 screws (easily found on ebay) - that reduces the chances of fouling the strings. The second part of the solution (which works on metric and imperial bridges) often involves raising the bridge and lowering the saddles a tad, such that the action remains the same - that results in screws that are not angled upwards as much, so also less likely to foul the strings at the front. That may not be possible in your case if the strings are instead hitting the screw heads at the back. In any case it is a bit of a dance, as the strings may also risk fouling the front/back edge of the bridge plate. If the screw head fouling remains after step one, you may instead need to lower the bridge / raise the saddles (then possible due to the shorter screws ?).

Is the neck pocket shimmed ? If so, what is the shim taper angle ? Can you post a side pic of the bridge height ?

The angle of the bridge should always be vertical. That is dependent on good string-saddle friction (string gauge=>string tension, neck angle/bridge height =>string break angle).

EDIT: I just saw the buzz stop in one pic. Is that now gone ?
Thanks! I enjoyed the process very much, and look forward to the next one!

The buzz stop didn't make it past putting on the first string. I put the low E through it, pulled it to the headstock, checked and didn't even try to make it work. The buzz stop was way too close to the bridge.

So, due to your questions, I actually questioned myself on a few things. First, I made darn sure I was 5/8" (0.625") deep on the neck pocket when I did the initial routing... looks like final sanding may have brought that down to somewhere between 0.610" and 0.605", I did have to sand back a mistake I made on my first attempt at a finish, which that debacle is a conversation for another day. At any rate, I did get quite aggressive in my sanding, so maybe(?) I sanded back .020" (possibly?)...

This is definitely contributing to the issue, but I think the question you asked about which bridge may actually hold the key, because I think on the body, even though the neck pocket accuracy is probably most important next to bridge placement, the most accurate requirements of the neck are pocket fit and flatness. Issues with depth, to a degree can be managed by saddle/bridge height.

Even if I were to shave .020" out of the neck pocket and not damage the existing work, I am not sure it would overcome the issue of what I now see as a mismatch between the bridge I chose and the neck that I chose. The neck has a compound radius of 10" to 16". The bridge is a Made in USA vintage (005-4460-049) Fender part, and looks to be designed for a 7.25" radius, although I am fairly certain it could be used for a 9.5" neck, too.

I actually considered this when I purchased it... how they would match up, and then when "building day" came along, I promptly forgot all about that and had my blinders on. At least until now. Thanks for asking the right questions, because it forced me to take a second look and there is simply no combination of settings that will let me take that bridge and reliably adjust to the neck I have.

This leaves me two choices: buy the Offset Mastery Bridge or a new neck. The neck cannot be returned, I have had it too long and my wife really likes it. So that really just leaves me with getting a new bridge and if I *still* have an issue... (I hate to even think it) finding the best way to increase the neck pocket depth without screwing up the work I already did.

I think I have made up my mind, but want to thank you again for being a sounding board and getting me to get my mind back on the actual issue instead of how to work around it.

Per request, here are close up pics of the bridge from the low side... couldn't get a good angle from the high side:
Image
Image
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Fender Addiction » Sun Aug 02, 2020 4:18 am

Mechanical Birds wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 10:05 pm
TL;DR but those pieces of wood together were like. Perfect match Venom face which was cool
Ha! I thought the same thing (along with Cylons from the BSG reboot in the early 2000s), and wanted to somehow incorporate that into the final look... however, once I cut the Telecaster shape, though, it looked less like Venom (or a Cylon). Then when I cut in the pickup routes, I knew it wasn't meant to be.

The uncle who gave me the mesquite blocks has more raw mesquite for me.. so, who knows?
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by timtam » Sun Aug 02, 2020 5:04 am

Fender Addiction wrote:
Sun Aug 02, 2020 4:13 am
timtam wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 9:05 pm
Fender Addiction wrote:
Sat Aug 01, 2020 6:54 pm
My question is: due to how close the tailpiece is to the bridge (and this is a Jazzmaster tailpiece and Jazzmaster bridge), the steep break angle either causes the back side of a couple strings to hit the intonation screw heads, or if I adjust the angle of the bridge toward the tailpiece, some strings hit the tips of the intonation screws. Turning the bridge around with the screw heads on the pickup side of the house is even worse.
Nice build !

It looks like you may have a metric bridge ? Those have 18mm M3 intonation screws. MIA bridges' imperial screws are ~15.9mm. If yours measure at 18mm, the first part of the solution is to switch to 16mm M3 screws (easily found on ebay) - that reduces the chances of fouling the strings. The second part of the solution (which works on metric and imperial bridges) often involves raising the bridge and lowering the saddles a tad, such that the action remains the same - that results in screws that are not angled upwards as much, so also less likely to foul the strings at the front. That may not be possible in your case if the strings are instead hitting the screw heads at the back. In any case it is a bit of a dance, as the strings may also risk fouling the front/back edge of the bridge plate. If the screw head fouling remains after step one, you may instead need to lower the bridge / raise the saddles (then possible due to the shorter screws ?).

Is the neck pocket shimmed ? If so, what is the shim taper angle ? Can you post a side pic of the bridge height ?

The angle of the bridge should always be vertical. That is dependent on good string-saddle friction (string gauge=>string tension, neck angle/bridge height =>string break angle).

EDIT: I just saw the buzz stop in one pic. Is that now gone ?
Thanks! I enjoyed the process very much, and look forward to the next one!

The buzz stop didn't make it past putting on the first string. I put the low E through it, pulled it to the headstock, checked and didn't even try to make it work. The buzz stop was way too close to the bridge.

So, due to your questions, I actually questioned myself on a few things. First, I made darn sure I was 5/8" (0.625") deep on the neck pocket when I did the initial routing... looks like final sanding may have brought that down to somewhere between 0.610" and 0.605", I did have to sand back a mistake I made on my first attempt at a finish, which that debacle is a conversation for another day. At any rate, I did get quite aggressive in my sanding, so maybe(?) I sanded back .020" (possibly?)...

This is definitely contributing to the issue, but I think the question you asked about which bridge may actually hold the key, because I think on the body, even though the neck pocket accuracy is probably most important next to bridge placement, the most accurate requirements of the neck are pocket fit and flatness. Issues with depth, to a degree can be managed by saddle/bridge height.

Even if I were to shave .020" out of the neck pocket and not damage the existing work, I am not sure it would overcome the issue of what I now see as a mismatch between the bridge I chose and the neck that I chose. The neck has a compound radius of 10" to 16". The bridge is a Made in USA vintage (005-4460-049) Fender part, and looks to be designed for a 7.25" radius, although I am fairly certain it could be used for a 9.5" neck, too.

I actually considered this when I purchased it... how they would match up, and then when "building day" came along, I promptly forgot all about that and had my blinders on. At least until now. Thanks for asking the right questions, because it forced me to take a second look and there is simply no combination of settings that will let me take that bridge and reliably adjust to the neck I have.

This leaves me two choices: buy the Offset Mastery Bridge or a new neck. The neck cannot be returned, I have had it too long and my wife really likes it. So that really just leaves me with getting a new bridge and if I *still* have an issue... (I hate to even think it) finding the best way to increase the neck pocket depth without screwing up the work I already did.

I think I have made up my mind, but want to thank you again for being a sounding board and getting me to get my mind back on the actual issue instead of how to work around it.

Per request, here are close up pics of the bridge from the low side... couldn't get a good angle from the high side:
Image
Image
The bridge looks to be a decent height, with a good break angle. So shim unnecessary (although 0.5 degrees the other way could be a option, ie tilting the neck down). While the bridge is MIA/imperial (and is adjustable to any radius), the screw length still does appear marginal for string clearance. The screws will be #4-40 (5/8" long). As I said, sometimes setting up a bridge at the margins is a bit of a dance. Your intonation is perhaps a fraction further back than typical, especially on the low E, so you're in string fouling territory with the stock intonation screw length tilted up and the respective bridge/saddle heights. If you can get some shorter screws for those most likely to foul, you may be able to solve your forward string fouling issues (while avoiding the issues at the screw heads).

I would not assume that a Mastery would be an obvious complete fix. It might be, or it might have its own problems with being on the high side. Opposite to the traditional bridge, the Mastery needs lower string-saddle friction, as it is fixed rather than rocking and thus the strings have to slide smoothly over the saddles with trem use.

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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Fender Addiction » Sun Aug 02, 2020 2:49 pm

I believe the Mastery is probably more forgiving when working with a flatter neck profile. They have a 30-day unconditional return policy, so I am feeling better about the idea of a $175 investment. I don't really mind paying that much for a great solution. And, to be sure, I have a lot of money invested in this "experiment" so far already. Making one isn't always cheaper than buying one :)

I'll likely be keeping the MIA vintage style bridge as I am drying some walnut slabs I plan to use on a Jazzmaster style build next year, so even that doesn't feel like a waste of money at this point. My plan on that one is to go "full vintage" and get or make a 7.25" radius Jazzmaster style neck with binding and rectangle inlays (like the 1966 Jazzmaster I inherited from my dad).

I was hoping another brand would show up somewhere in the conversation. Surely there isn't just Fender and Mastery who make these parts?
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Fender Addiction » Sun Aug 02, 2020 3:59 pm

Additional thought here, and why I am really starting to get optimistic about changing the bridge being the solution to this problem. First I would like to say, I actually believe that it will force me to accept other compromises regarding the guitar. However, I accepted long ago that guitars in general are full of compromise.

But, in this case, if my current bridge could be intonated by screws that were either not directly inline with the strings, or if the intonation screws were maybe countersunk instead of round head, or something like that. Basically, anything that would take the intonation screws out of the path of the string, it would solve the problem with the existing bridge regardless of string height or neck radius.

The bridge I am planning to use has only 4 intonation screws, and they are between strings. I am a bit concerned about the fact that I will probably have to compromise on intonation length to some degree as individual saddles can't be tweaked. But, I started my journey on a Telecaster with 3 saddles that handled 2 strings each, and didn't have compensation (which also still involves compromise)... but, again, my optimism: this is a T-style guitar I built... it's all about compromise! :D
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by timtam » Sun Aug 02, 2020 6:15 pm

Fender Addiction wrote:
Sun Aug 02, 2020 3:59 pm
...
But, in this case, if my current bridge could be intonated by screws that were either not directly inline with the strings, or if the intonation screws were maybe countersunk instead of round head, or something like that. Basically, anything that would take the intonation screws out of the path of the string, it would solve the problem with the existing bridge regardless of string height or neck radius.
Some bridge options with intonation adjustment outside the string lines:

Mastery
https://masterybridge.com/bridges/offset-bridge/
Halon
https://www.haarguitars.com/product/cus ... -jm-style/
Fender RSD (custom-milled for Fender Custom Shop guitars, rarely resold on reverb)
https://i.ibb.co/Tc58JD4/59560536745-A7 ... -AF3-C.jpg
Staytrem Mustang-style, 9.5" fixed-radius (UK direct sales only, sometimes on ebay/reverb)
https://staytrem.com/Jaguar-/-Jazzmaster-bridge-9-5
6 tele saddles (with new holes drilled in the opposite or same side of the bridge plate)
https://www.guitarpartsresource.com/ima ... S-T6-N.jpg
3 tele saddles, Lourero-style (same drilling options, but strings best routed over not through plate as shown)
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hGiotopqfLU/maxresdefault.jpg
Mosrite bridge (saddles higher, screws lower, so works best if bridge is already high; 9.5" radius available ?)
https://i.imgur.com/tS6KnYU_d.jpg?maxwi ... ity=medium
Tune-o-matic roller bridge
https://i.redd.it/4abggzeirb521.jpg

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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Fender Addiction » Sun Aug 02, 2020 8:49 pm

timtam wrote:
Sun Aug 02, 2020 6:15 pm
Some bridge options with intonation adjustment outside the string lines:
I've already ordered this one. I'm hoping it resolves most of the issues. They have a great return policy.
Mastery
https://masterybridge.com/bridges/offset-bridge/

This one looks completely bulletproof! Kinda cool, too!
Halon
https://www.haarguitars.com/product/cus ... -jm-style/

If the Mastery doesn't work out, it will probably be one of these:
Fender RSD (custom-milled for Fender Custom Shop guitars, rarely resold on reverb)
https://i.ibb.co/Tc58JD4/59560536745-A7 ... -AF3-C.jpg
3 tele saddles, Lourero-style (same drilling options, but strings best routed over not through plate as shown)
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/hGiotopqfLU/maxresdefault.jpg

This looks interesting, but if I went for unorthodox, I'd go for that RSD one above:
Mosrite bridge (saddles higher, screws lower, so works best if bridge is already high; 9.5" radius available ?)
https://i.imgur.com/tS6KnYU_d.jpg?maxwi ... ity=medium

Originally thought of doing this, but it doesn't look like there's an option to adjust for radius?
Tune-o-matic roller bridge
https://i.redd.it/4abggzeirb521.jpg
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by mgeek » Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:38 am

Do regular tele bridges work with trems?

Would suit the aesthetic better than a jm one imo

Great looking guitar!

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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by andy_tchp » Mon Aug 03, 2020 3:18 am

Great looking guitar.

FYI the comments/thoughts on radius and bridge selection don't make sense.

The vintage type bridge you have on there is adjustable to any radius (or flat/'no radius').

The Mastery is not - its [2] saddles are each individually subtly curved (radiused), to allow the design to work with 'all common radius' (meaning 7.25" to about 10" in practice) with the 4 height adjustment fasteners. This is in fact less accommodating of a flatter neck like a 10-16 compound where you want the bridge/saddle radius to be almost flat, which can't be achieved (you can set the saddles as flat as you like, but the curve in each will create a shallow 'm' shape.)


EDIT: Later pics show ample clearance between the intonation screw heads and the strings?

The 'dance' timtam referred to is raising the bridge base while lowering the individual saddles enough to prevent the end of the intonation screw(s) from poking up at such a steep angle and fouling the string at the 'front' (pickups side) of the bridge, while not going so far as to have the string foul on the head of the intonation screw at the 'back' (tailpiece) side. You have space to work with there.

Shortening the screws is possible too (I've cut them previously), or for off the shelf replacements it'd be worth trying some 4-40 in 1/2" length - Fender uses 5/8" which can be a touch too long on offset bridges.
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Fender Addiction » Mon Aug 03, 2020 8:57 pm

andy_tchp wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 3:18 am
Great looking guitar.
Thanks!

andy_tchp wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 3:18 am
FYI the comments/thoughts on radius and bridge selection don't make sense.

The vintage type bridge you have on there is adjustable to any radius (or flat/'no radius').

The Mastery is not - its [2] saddles are each individually subtly curved (radiused), to allow the design to work with 'all common radius' (meaning 7.25" to about 10" in practice) with the 4 height adjustment fasteners. This is in fact less accommodating of a flatter neck like a 10-16 compound where you want the bridge/saddle radius to be almost flat, which can't be achieved (you can set the saddles as flat as you like, but the curve in each will create a shallow 'm' shape.)
At the price I am paying for the Mastery, if it doesn't do what I need, I will definitely be returning it. They have a 30-day unconditional return policy. I'm not big on buying things to "test them out," but there's no other way to know unless I buy one. Otherwise I am only speculating that it will/won't work.
andy_tchp wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 3:18 am
EDIT: Later pics show ample clearance between the intonation screw heads and the strings?

The 'dance' timtam referred to is raising the bridge base while lowering the individual saddles enough to prevent the end of the intonation screw(s) from poking up at such a steep angle and fouling the string at the 'front' (pickups side) of the bridge, while not going so far as to have the string foul on the head of the intonation screw at the 'back' (tailpiece) side. You have space to work with there.

Shortening the screws is possible too (I've cut them previously), or for off the shelf replacements it'd be worth trying some 4-40 in 1/2" length - Fender uses 5/8" which can be a touch too long on offset bridges.
I didn't take pics at every level that I tried. But, no matter where I put the bridge, either the outer saddles had an issue or the inner ones did. I tried lowering the bridge and raising the saddles, then I tried the opposite. It was a long day, and no matter what I did, I either had some string buzz or sitar effect.

The sitar effect is actually much worse than the buzz. When it would buzz, that didn't come through on the amp, I could only hear it acoustically. The sitar sound, on the other hand, basically made the string useless.

Long story short, I've ordered the Mastery and it is either going to resolve the issue or it isn't. If it doesn't I'll go back to the drawing board... like literally, I have a drafting table and supplies and I'm not afraid to use them. :)
Last edited by Fender Addiction on Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by Fender Addiction » Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:21 pm

mgeek wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:38 am
Do regular tele bridges work with trems?
From what I have seen, the three intonation screw versions of the bridge get shaved down to allow the strings to come through. In my case that's not an option as I didn't convert it from a string-through body, and I intended to use a JM bridge. In doing so, I had to drill holes for the thimbles. That's exactly where the Tele bridge would have mounted.

In my case, I took an existing Telecaster bridge and trimmed off everything except the part of the bridge meant for holding the pickup, then drilled new mounting holes, and rounded any rough edges.
mgeek wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:38 am
Would suit the aesthetic better than a jm one imo
There are things I would design differently if I were able to go back and change them. But, I like the way this particular part of the guitar worked out, at least the looks of it. It's what I was going for. I wanted something different, that you don't see very often.

I wanted to do a mashup of my two favorite styles, but I didn't want to do what Fender did. I didn't want to force a Jazzmaster into a Telecaster shape. I wanted elements of both, as well as a couple other options, like the P90 I put in the neck, and the wenge-on-wenge neck and fretboard.

What I would change is that I would have routed voids in the body before covering the back in epoxy... anything to remove weight.
mgeek wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:38 am
Great looking guitar!
Thanks!
“Dewey Cox has to think about his whole life before he plays.” - Sam McPherson, Drummer for Dewey Cox

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andy_tchp
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Re: T-Style body with Jazzmaster bridge and tailpiece question

Post by andy_tchp » Mon Aug 03, 2020 9:41 pm

Fender Addiction wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 8:57 pm
andy_tchp wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 3:18 am
FYI the comments/thoughts on radius and bridge selection don't make sense.

The vintage type bridge you have on there is adjustable to any radius (or flat/'no radius').

The Mastery is not - its [2] saddles are each individually subtly curved (radiused), to allow the design to work with 'all common radius' (meaning 7.25" to about 10" in practice) with the 4 height adjustment fasteners. This is in fact less accommodating of a flatter neck like a 10-16 compound where you want the bridge/saddle radius to be almost flat, which can't be achieved (you can set the saddles as flat as you like, but the curve in each will create a shallow 'm' shape.)
At the price I am paying for the Mastery, if it doesn't do what I need, I will definitely be returning it. They have a 30-day unconditional return policy. I'm not big on buying things to "test them out," but there's no other way to know unless I buy one. Otherwise I am only speculating that it will/won't work.
*Shrug*

OK, don't take my word for it - It's literally documented there in the product literature and (IIRC) the patent applications.
"I don't know why we asked him to join the band 'cause the rest of us don't like country music all that much; we just like Graham Lee."
David McComb, 1987.

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