grain filling and sealing

[peasy]

well, basically, how do you do it?
I mean, do it properly, i've been researching it for a few days and have found some useful information, but nothing concise, what i really want is a step by step guide on how to do this, and also what fillers are best to use etc. Can anyone help?

[Hellion]

For involved finish work, you may want to visit Reranch. I am sure there are plenty of people here who can tell you about it, but they get into details and theory. First of all it depends on wood type, then filler type, and finish type. This is also specific to your part of the world, since the US has different products available. In the UK you may want to check out this place.

I use Reranch nitro, and recently started using a nitro-based brush on filler that acts almost like a thick sealer. I brush on several coats, let dry, and sand. To get it perfect I may have to do that a few times, depending on the condition of the body.

You would have better lick finding Bartley's, which has the consistency of a gluey peanut butter. You apply it, then scrape it off with a junk credit card (or phone card, subway, etc). Let it dry, sand to 320, repeat until glass smooth. Filler is to grain and imperfections what wood putty is to holes.

[theworkoffire]

This grain filler will do fine http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Rust ... -22802.htm



Make sure you use a cellulose sanding sealer like this: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0



Homebase sell their own branded version (made by Bolloms), which works a treat. There are spirit and acrylic sanding sealers available which won't work for spraying nitro. The grain filler is harder to come by, so you'll probably have to get it online.

Reranch have a very good outline of the process - The Reranch 101

[peasy]

thanks so much, this really helps a lot!

[Ryan]

I like this version of the ReRanch 101 better: http://home.flash.net/~guitars/ReRanch101.html

Here's a couple tips I found from having just done it twice.

Regardless of what kind of grain filler you use (I used general-purpose black because it would show up better), do 2 to 3 coats. You'll think this is silly, but trust me, if you use ash, you'll be seeing grain pores in your sleep. After that, you need sanding sealer. Lacquer based sanding sealer is a must; water-based products go on like rubber cement and just smother the wood. The problem with Lacquer based products is that they soak in and when you sand them down, the pores tend to show back up.

My dad did 3 coats of sanding sealer, I sanded them smooth, and it appeared that there were no pores. It was perfectly glassy to the touch and there were no visible pores. Just to check, we shot one coat of primer, and when it dried, several pores showed up. We spot-treated with more sanding sealer, sanded, and did 3 coats of primer. That eliminated the pores.

[Regan]

I use Bartley's Oil-Base Filler. I use Fullerplast to seal before the lacquer goes on.

[GUITARmole]

I use Bartley's Oil-Base Filler. I use Fullerplast to seal before the lacquer goes on.

+1 for Bartley's.  Really, it depends on what you're going to paint (nitro or poly) as to what you use for the filler and how you apply it.

For nitro I use Bartley's and apply it with a paper towel and when it gets tacky I wipe it off so as to leave it only in the grain...it makes sanding much easier because if you leave lots of filler on the wood surface it'll clog your sandpaper and cause scratches or gouges in the wood.