Series mod for Jaguar

[Orang Goreng]

your tele would be wired Series out of Phase.

Hang on...why would they be wired out of phase? The RW would put the signal out of phase (as it does the hum), but the RP puts it right back in phase, not?

[haledixon]

ok... if it would make standard single-coils more 'humbucker-like', what would be the effect of the series mod on a set of humbuckers? even higher output? dumb idea?

[pullover]

Hang on...why would they be wired out of phase? The RW would put the signal out of phase (as it does the hum), but the RP puts it right back in phase, not?

You're right, my bad. RWRP pickups are still in phase since the magnets are also reversed (reversed polarity). So Jonas, your tele would still be wired Series IN Phase.

ok... if it would make standard single-coils more 'humbucker-like', what would be the effect of the series mod on a set of humbuckers? even higher output? dumb idea?

Not a dumb idea at all. Try it.

[haledixon]

i only ask cause my latest jaguar is has been fitted with humbuckers, dimarzio super distortions in both neck and bridge. ive got to do some work on the grounding of it and thought while im at it i might try something different with it. honestly, with just the neck p'up selected, its way too hot and bites really hard. with the bridge only, it's really tinny and thin, but with both on it has a great sound - very full and bassy with just enough jangliness from the bridge. are there any mods that might make the neck p'up a little more usable to me, something that would mellow it out? maybe switching to 500k pots?

[pullover]

Usually if its too bright, it's recommended to use the 250k with a humbucker. You might just try lowering the pickup, though I bet someone else will come along with a better suggestion. Also, you could wire it as a single coil when on by itself, and make it a humbucker when both pickups are selected.

[djetz]

i only ask cause my latest jaguar is has been fitted with humbuckers, dimarzio super distortions in both neck and bridge. ive got to do some work on the grounding of it and thought while im at it i might try something different with it. honestly, with just the neck p'up selected, its way too hot and bites really hard. with the bridge only, it's really tinny and thin, but with both on it has a great sound - very full and bassy with just enough jangliness from the bridge. are there any mods that might make the neck p'up a little more usable to me, something that would mellow it out? maybe switching to 500k pots?

You could do what I did with my Jag HH - series/parallel switching on each bucker.

Buckers are wired in series as standard, I find that having the option of switching them to parallel is a much more usuable sound than splitting them and losing the humbucking effect.

index.php?topic=1395.0 -  read about it here. Parallel wiring will certainly mellow out that neck bucker, and you'll probably like having the opportunity of switching between series and parallel settings.

I used pages from the Seymour Duncan wiring site to figure out what I was doing, if you're interested I can find the pages I used.

If you don't like it, you can go back to the original wiring with no permanant changes to your guitar. I'm very happy with my results.

[tremolite]

The current American Deluxe Teles with the S1 switch have both pickups in series with the button down and the 3-way in the middle position.  It's an awesome sound.

Have you tried it out yet?

I have an American Standrad Tele HS with the S1 switch. I use the series positions a whole lot. In fact with the switch down, all three positions on the Tele are in series. Really awesome sounds! Although I had to replace the crappy stock PU's for the guitar to really come into its own.

[haledixon]

I used pages from the Seymour Duncan wiring site to figure out what I was doing, if you're interested I can find the pages I used.

if you wouldn't mind i'd appreciate it. sounds like something i'd like to try.

[mynameisjonas]

Hang on...why would they be wired out of phase? The RW would put the signal out of phase (as it does the hum), but the RP puts it right back in phase, not?

You're right, my bad. RWRP pickups are still in phase since the magnets are also reversed (reversed polarity). So Jonas, your tele would still be wired Series IN Phase.

which is exactly what a humbucker is. two SCs in series, one of them RWRP.

[djetz]

I used pages from the Seymour Duncan wiring site to figure out what I was doing, if you're interested I can find the pages I used.

if you wouldn't mind i'd appreciate it. sounds like something i'd like to try.

OK, first you'll need this page so you can translate SD wiring colours to DiMarzio:

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/sc ... codes.html

Then you'll need this page to see how to wire the switches up.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/sc ... 1v_sp.html

The second link actually shows something a little different, a push/pull pot in fact, but you can safely ignore that and just use the switch part as your illustration. The six connections on the push/pull pot switch shown are the same as the six lugs on Japanese Jaguar switches.

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/sc ... aguar.html

The above page shows regular Jaguar wiring for reference.

I simply removed the wires leading to the wheels, wired the upper switch as a series/parallel switch for the neck pup, and wired the lower swicth as series/parallel for the bridge pup. I wired the output from the series/parallel switches to the inputs on the pickup on/off switches. I replaced the wire that led to the .003 cap with a wire to the output.

That means the signal goes:
neck pup -> series/parallel switch -> pup on/off switch -> output
bridge pup -> series/parallel switch -> pup on/off switch -> output

The output wire (the wire to the volume pot) is a single wire attached to both of the pup on/off switches. The pots are wired as regular volume/tone master pots.

Sorry I can't make it simpler - if I had the time and energy I could draw up an overall wiring diagram that would make it easier to follow. If you're really really stuck I'll have a go at doing that, but hopefully you should be able to follow my directions.

[FireAarro]

"First you must isolate the bridge pickup's ground: cut the little link wire between the pickup eyelet and the 'claw', remove the wire from the eyelet and resolder it to the claw only. Then add a new ground wire to the eyelet, long enough to reach to the switch cavity."

What does that mean exactly?

[fullerplast]

The Jag pickup has a small uninsulated wire from the 'black lead pole' to the 'claw'. Remove this little jumper wire. Next desolder the black wire from the pickup (the other end is connected to the brass), and resolder this wire to the claw. Now your claw is connected to the brass... and your pickup is ungrounded at the pole. Add a new wire from the empty pole to the switch as shown in the drawing.

OK? If I made the confusion worse, let me know...   :-[

P.S. The reason is so that the pickup will not ground out when the ground lead becomes the hot lead (phase switched), you don't want the signal to go to the claw and brass and kill everything.

[FireAarro]

The Jag pickup has a small uninsulated wire from the 'black lead pole' to the 'claw'. Remove this little jumper wire. Next desolder the black wire from the pickup (the other end is connected to the brass), and resolder this wire to the claw. Now your claw is connected to the brass... and your pickup is ungrounded at the pole. Add a new wire from the empty pole to the switch as shown in the drawing.

OK? If I made the confusion worse, let me know... 

P.S. The reason is so that the pickup will not ground out when the ground lead becomes the hot lead (phase switched), you don't want the signal to go to the claw and brass and kill everything.

Thanks, that helps a lot. Does the rewiring of the claw etc. change the bridge pickup's operation in anyway (claw etc.)?

[momunist]

that is a cool mod.  glad i stumbled across this.  thanks.

now i just need a jag to do it to..........

[fullerplast]

Does the rewiring of the claw etc. change the bridge pickup's operation in anyway (claw etc.)?

No, not at all. The claw is not really "wired" per se.  It's just grounded (it's just a piece of metal). It ends up being grounded exactly the way it was before.. to the brass and the rest of the ground circuit. The only difference is the pickup is no longer grounded to it as well, the pickup is "isolated" from the claw.