Putting a roller bridge on a Squier Deluxe JM

[Digital Larry]

The Deluxe is the one that's almost the same as a JMJM but red.

I was getting a little tired of the E string always breaking at the bridge so I read some threads here and decided to roll the dice on a $12 roller bridge from Amazon.

I unscrewed the posts of the existing AOM bridge. The new thimbles are much smaller and are not threaded on the outside. They are splined, I guess you'd call it. They fit inside the threads of the existing thimbles by some coincidence. Thought I'd put some heat shrink on the outside of the new thimbles to see if it would take up some slack, which I suppose it did. I had to use a drill to shave the insides of the slots of the bridge itself so they'd fit on the posts, but after that the fit seems pretty good. There are fore and aft set screws at each post to give some gross adjustment for intonation. I checked it and it seems like it will not be that hard to adjust those.

The only thing that concerns me a bit is that the fit of the posts is not real tight, which could affect sustain I suppose.

I really like this guitar in spite of it just being a relative cheapie and I'm hoping that I can get this bridge stabilized and dialed in.

[timtam]

Which roller bridge ?

Here's another Squier Deluxe with a roller added ...
https://reverb.com/uk/item/7066827-fend ... iring-more

[MC3]

I don't know if this is helpful or dumb, but with my Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster (which is nearly identical in all but fret size to the Deluxe), I used a GFS (cheap) roller bridge that fit onto the original bridge's post. Never had to unscrew the posts.

Hope you get it sorted!

[timtam]

I don't know if this is helpful or dumb, but with my Squier J Mascis Jazzmaster (which is nearly identical in all but fret size to the Deluxe), I used a GFS (cheap) roller bridge that fit onto the original bridge's post. Never had to unscrew the posts.

Hope you get it sorted!

GFS has two roller bridges, a Wilkinson style and one other (like the one shown above). However both have M8 lower threaded posts, so either will go into a guitar with existing M8 body bushings.
https://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson- ... p_866.html
https://www.guitarfetish.com/Roller-Bri ... p_661.html
They have different size upper posts (6mm vs 4mm), and are fractionally different in post-to-post spacing (which may or may not make a difference in a given guitar). And their body bushings have different OD, if you ever need to change those out.

[Digital Larry]

Well, I'm glad I brought it up before I got too invested in it.

The one I got looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/BQLZR-Chrome-Loc ... ts&sr=1-12

But if there's one that drops right in, well that's the one I should be using instead of this. Also this one looks like the individual saddles could be tough to adjust as the string is in the way of the screw.

Thanks! Now I just have to figure out which one to get, as so many look similar.

DL

[timtam]

Yes, TOM/AOM bridges (non-roller and roller) are fraught .... there are a number of incompatible variants out there. And Fender does not always use the same stock variants when they decide to use an AOM. And some vendors do not give all their bridge measurements.

To avoid having to switch the original body bushings out, you probably want M8 threaded posts .. I am assuming that is what the deluxe has - you should measure them. The variant of the Wilkinson you bought (somewhat uncommon version) looks like it has smaller diameter threaded posts. IIUC you already switched the body bushings out but did not enlarge the body wood holes ... if you had enlarged the body holes then that would limit alternative options.

The variation in the diameter of the upper posts between bridges doesn't matter so much if the new bridge's threaded posts fit the old body bushings ... because you're bringing the (upper) posts that fit the new bridge.

The two styles of roller bridges are a matter of taste. Neither are likely to be a perfect neck radius match (nor is the original). That bothers some people more than others, but some have found it possible to shim the middle saddles of the Wilkinson-style ... to round its radius a tad closer to the neck's.

[MC3]

Seems like timtam has you covered, Mr. Digital Larry. more than I could ever help.

I have the non Wilkinson style and I gotta say that I'm not super impressed. I find I knock the strings off their saddles if I am picking too hard (which I almost always am). I really should try the Wilkinson style out

[Digital Larry]

It seems nothing in this world is perfect. I can see that the strings might pop off due to the shallow slot in the roller. I don't think the "Wilkinson" type is any different in this regard. The bridge type on the pictured JM above looks way easier to adjust intonation. I am already used to the TOM bridge radius and I think the guitar plays nice.

I didn't do anything irretrievable to the guitar yet, probably got a bit discombobulated with my terminology. I unscrewed the posts on the guitar after taking the TOM bridge off, but the bushings in the body are still there. The new bridge I got, the entire bushing/post thing fits inside the threads of the existing one. Clearly I could benefit from some matching posts. They look pretty much like M8s but I'll confirm with my calipers.

[jcrouse]

I replaced my JMJM with the Wilkinson style roller bridge a few years ago and have never looked back. It fit right on the posts that came with the guitar.

[Digital Larry]

I'm happy to report that the "LP" style roller bridge from Guitar Fetish did in fact drop right on to the existing posts. Having the larger posts with the slotted top makes height adjustment via flat blade screwdriver way easier than the other one where you actually have to grip the thumbwheel somehow to rotate it. Now I have two extra bridges! Don't think I'll be starting a repair shop any time soon. Anyway the other one just cost $12 plus an hour of messing around with it.

Amazingly, the default intonation on this bridge also seems pretty close. I put back on the remaining strings from my 46-10 set (after the high E broke) just to dial things in. If I get time later tonight I will put a fresh set of 11s on the guitar.

Thanks for the tips! Hoping this helps keep down my high E breakage.

DL