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Shadoweclipse13 wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 28, 2018 1:58 am

Hey Shadoweclipse13,

Hope you can help me on this:

I want to build a strat with the 7 tone mod but rather than just copying I wanted to have a go at drawing it out to learn how it all works.

This would be the idea with a jag slider switch to activate the neck pickup for positions 6&7.



is this the right way to wire it?

That depends on what you want the pots to do. I think the top most pot is supposed to be the volume right, and the bottom two tone pots? But if they are they are wired .. .. .. weird .. .. .. and won't operate as standard tone pots, in fact I don't think they have any effect at all as there seems to be no position of the switch were they are in circuit. Position 1 sends the signal through the bottom pot to the wiper to the capacitor / middle pot and then to an open lug (position 3) on the switch. In contrast, in position 3 connects to the wiper of the middle pos and the capacitor, the signal could go to the bottom pot wiper but then has nowhere to go as it's connected to an open lug on the switch (position 1).

To have the pots be tone pots for the neck & middle pickups:
1. connect the neck tone pot side lug to position 3 on the switch (where the pink wire is connected now)
2. connect the middle tine pot side lug to position 2 on the witch (right beside the pink wire, it's open now)
3. connect the middle lugs of the pots and then wire the tone capacitor from either middle lug to the casing.

I think that's what you are looking for . . . .

Sorry hpr_hpr! He contacted me by PM, and I ended up sending him the information through PM.

Shadoweclipse13 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:56 pm

Sorry hpr_hpr! He contacted me by PM, and I ended up sending him the information through PM.

No problem, it was actually interesting to me because I've never wired a strat . . . . . .

I've wired one or two, but I've never done one with the classic 1 volume, 2 tone. I wired my first Tele (lefty MIM) with an always-on switch, which is always fun.

SY6655321 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:23 pm

Hey Shadow, I've got a conundrum. You seem to be pretty good with mustang switches (I'm not).

Here's the idea:


Here's what I came up with:

Same idea, new wiring...

SY6655321 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:23 pm

Will this work? Any ideas or suggestions?

Just a quick check, but it seems correct.

Just wanted to say thanks for both Gordon and hpr_hpr. I've been crazy busy the last couple months, and you guys have been helping out with the schematics and stuff. So appreciated

Gordon wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 15, 2018 7:30 pm

Just a quick check, but it seems correct.

Concur . . . nice idea.

Hey Shadoweclipse13 (or Gordon and hpr_hpr). I'm hoping you can look over a scheme I came up with. I couldn't find that anyone had ever done such a scheme, so I tried to do it myself. I've never came up with my own schematic, so I'm not sure if there are any obvious problems, or if it even works. Thanks in advance.

The idea is to use an on-on-on mini toggle to have the following options: Parallel / Series / Series with a bass cut "bright" cap. I've found that bass cut pots/switches are only useful (for me) in series mode and hope to consolidate the functions to one switch.

I don't see any problem with it. The only thing I wonder about is if the bright capacitor might still affect the signal in the parallel mode. I know the signal isn't going through it, but just a thought. I honestly don't know in that case. Other than that, I like it! If everything works properly, and I don't see why it shouldn't, it's a very cool mod! Packs a lot into a small space!!

If that is the case (that it could affect the signal), you could add a wire from 2nd left on middle row to top right, and move the capacitor so that it now connects bottom right with 2nd left middle row. Then (since 2nd left top row is vacant), neither end of the capacitor are connected to the circuit in mode 1 or 2.

Futuron wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 19, 2018 4:25 am

If that is the case (that it could affect the signal), you could add a wire from 2nd left on middle row to top right, and move the capacitor so that it now connects bottom right with 2nd left middle row. Then (since 2nd left top row is vacant), neither end of the capacitor are connected to the circuit in mode 1 or 2.

I was thinking that. Not moving the cap there specifically, but to maybe completely isolate it if it did cause an issue. I'm not certain it would, but I was just thinking out loud, you know?

EDIT: Don't know how long you've had it, but I LOVE your avatar!! Nothing beats classic LEGO Space!!!

Thanks guys! I really appreciate the feedback.
I may try and use this on my in progress Jazzmaster build.

Here is the updated version with the cap isolated:

Only got around to adding an avatar a few weeks ago, thought I'd make it a good one. For a serious 80s/90s nostalgia hit, I recommend Lego Space - The Comic