Re: G String Intonation Screw Troubles

enormous · Post by **enormous** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 5:17 pm

I was just wondering if anybody here has any tips on how to get the G string sorted out. I can't get it centered over the pickups because of the damn intonation screw sticks out too far and the G string can't sit where it needs to. It also barely touches the screw so the string is sort of stifled and plinky. It's really annoying because the string spacing is off just a little since the G string has to sit beside the screw rather than over top of it. Any advice?

Oh, here's a couple quick questions. What effect would using a 1M volume control and a 250k or 500k tone control have? Also, do the brass shielding tubs act as a Faraday cage or do you need to ground the plates to the back of a pot?

Post by **fullerplast** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:42 pm

Regarding the G string... some people cut the screw off. I realize if it's vintage, you probably wouldn't want to do that. So maybe a repro screw would work for you, shortened so it doesn't protrude past the barrel.

Another tip is to turn the entire bridge around, so the intonation screws are facing backwards. Of course you have to re-orient your saddles, but you don't have to mod anything. If a string hits the screw behind the bridge, it's not much an issue (unless maybe you're an avid trem user).

I would think the 250k tone pot would be darker.

And yes, the brass shielding should be grounded.

Hope this helps. Maybe some others will chime in....

enormous · Post by **enormous** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:48 am

What would be the difference between having a volume pot value of 250k/500k with a 1M tone pot and a 1M volume pot with a 250k/500k tone pot?

Also, do you mean that the repro screws are shortened or that it wouldn't be a problem to cut off a repro screw?

Post by **fullerplast** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:23 am

I meant that it wouldn't be a shame to cut off a repro screw.

I'm not sure I can answer the pot question accurately. I do alot of wiring, but am pretty bad on the "theory" behind it.

flatfiver · Post by **flatfiver** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:39 am

Another option for the g string screw would be to lower all the saddles a little bit and then raise the whole bridge to get the action back where it needs to be. The intonation screw won't be angled up as much which should give you some clearance.

Post by **fullerplast** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 12:38 pm

That's a good option too. I like my saddles high though, because the preload keeps everything snug. But if you use loctite or something, flatfiver's suggestion is probably easiest and should work fine.

enormous · Post by **enormous** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:01 pm

Here's another quick question. What difference can I expect if I get rid of the tone pot. I would like to wire it up with just the volume and the switch.

Post by **i love sharin foo** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:20 pm

enormous wrote: Here's another quick question. What difference can I expect if I get rid of the tone pot. I would like to wire it up with just the volume and the switch.

It will probably be a little brighter and it may be a little louder too.

Justin

Post by **mynameisjonas** » Fri Nov 17, 2006 1:47 am

i love sharin foo wrote:
enormous wrote: Here's another quick question. What difference can I expect if I get rid of the tone pot. I would like to wire it up with just the volume and the switch.
It will probably be a little brighter and it may be a little louder too.

Justin

yes indeed, there is a barely noticeable increase of both volume and brightness.

burker · Post by **burker** » Fri Nov 17, 2006 9:30 am

mynameisjonas wrote:
i love sharin foo wrote:
enormous wrote: Here's another quick question. What difference can I expect if I get rid of the tone pot. I would like to wire it up with just the volume and the switch.
It will probably be a little brighter and it may be a little louder too.

Justin
yes indeed, there is a barely noticeable increase of both volume and brightness.

I agree, my 76' has the tone pot disconnected, and it is rather bright (the body might be ash though, so that could effect it aswell....)

enormous · Post by **enormous** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:39 am

I think I may have devised a plan, tell me what you think. Since the neck is the standard 7.25" radius I could just use a Mustang saddle for the G string and then I wouldn't have to worry about the intonation screw. Anyone know where I can get a single Mustang saddle :-\?

Post by **mezcalhead** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:45 am

Mustang saddles don't have intonation screws?

(I've never owned a Mustang, can you tell?)

flatfiver · Post by **flatfiver** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:13 am

enormous wrote: I think I may have devised a plan, tell me what you think. Since the neck is the standard 7.25" radius I could just use a Mustang saddle for the G string and then I wouldn't have to worry about the intonation screw. Anyone know where I can get a single Mustang saddle :-\?

This will technically work, but you'll probably have to lower all the other saddles to get them in line with the G as Mustang saddles have a fixed height. It's basically going to be about the same amount of work as what I suggested above. You will get a little more clearance with a 'Stang saddle, though.

Post by **mezcalhead** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 11:37 am

Why not just cut the screw, or get a repro screw and cut that. If you have to replace the saddle, you might be better off with a Graphtech rather than a Mustang saddle since the Graphtechs have grub screws so you won't have to be fiddling around with bridge height etc.

enormous · Post by **enormous** » Thu Nov 23, 2006 7:25 am

I guess I will give flatfiver's suggestion a try first since I don't really have anything that will cut a screw.