Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
- boss302bass
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Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Anyone out there with a diagram for wiring a JM for series and parallel? I want to have a selection that utilises both pickups as a giant humbucker....bypassing the roller pots is fine. I understand this may have been done before but I can't seem to find it!
- empyrean
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
I did this on my scrapmaster - it sounds fantastic. It's all that humbucker power with more clarity.
This is what I did:
This is what I did:
- Telliot
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
So I understand, when you 'activate' the upper switch, does it only affect the middle position? Or does it bypass the toggle switch, as usual?
The cool thing about fretless is you can hit a note...and then renegotiate.
- empyrean
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
It turns the toggle into a killswitch when in the neck position, but works normally in the other positions.Telliot wrote:So I understand, when you 'activate' the upper switch, does it only affect the middle position? Or does it bypass the toggle switch, as usual?
- Telliot
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Any interest in posting a video demo'ing teh toanez?empyrean wrote:It turns the toggle into a killswitch when in the neck position, but works normally in the other positions.Telliot wrote:So I understand, when you 'activate' the upper switch, does it only affect the middle position? Or does it bypass the toggle switch, as usual?
The cool thing about fretless is you can hit a note...and then renegotiate.
- empyrean
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
I will definitely make one soon. I'm just in the middle of moving right now, but when I get the rig setup I'll post a demo.
- boss302bass
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
After troubleshooting various ground loops and rubbing spots on ill-fitting cavities, I finally got this wiring sorted. So good I have done it on two other customers guitars as well as my 68.5 Partsmaster. Sounds RAD. Soundclips being filmed next weekend...
- Telliot
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Can you draw up a diagram?boss302bass wrote:After troubleshooting various ground loops and rubbing spots on ill-fitting cavities, I finally got this wiring sorted. So good I have done it on two other customers guitars as well as my 68.5 Partsmaster. Sounds RAD. Soundclips being filmed next weekend...
The cool thing about fretless is you can hit a note...and then renegotiate.
- LHR
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Somehow, this ancient post came up in my query results. Apologies if this is old news to everyone but I gotta try this!
- boss302bass
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Do it. You'll love it. I used my JM Bass I finished building yesterday on stage last night and it is stunning in series mode. It's like being gutpunched in the face by a Super Precision Bass. Makes sense, right?!LHR wrote:Somehow, this ancient post came up in my query results. Apologies if this is old news to everyone but I gotta try this!
- MayTheFuzzBeWithYou
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Hey there!
this seems to be an old thread but maybe someone of you can help.
I've lately received a pair of GFS Surf 90s and wanted to put them in my jag. I had P-Rails in it. They were nice and fat and versatile - but somehow a little bit too dark sounding...for a Jag... so it's time for some pickup experiments!
I want my jag to have series/parallel switch in the middle of the three slide switches, strangler-switch as usual and the rhythm-lead switch should be where the neck pu is controlled normally. a 3-way toggle (controlling the lead circuit) is in the place where the rhythm-lead-switch was (as a 13 year Les Paul player I'm just used to that position)
I mixed some diagrams to hopefully fit my needs.
I used a standard Jaguar and a standard Jazzmaster Wiring-diagram (Seymour Duncan) and the posts of Shadoweclipse13 and empyrean (as seen below) for guidance. by the way. first soldering experience ever.
the strangle switch is working in all positions (thanks to shadoweclipse13's diagram). the 3 way switch is working. the rhythm-switch is working. but somehow the rhythm volume can't be rolled off entirely. It's either fat and juicy on the one side or thinned out on the other side. It's nice though... but not what was intended. the tone knob seems to work. also some buzzing when touching the rhythm-chrome plate.
the series parallel switch seems to be only working in the rhythm position, when the toggle is in the middle position (pu runs directly to the rhythm/lead slide and from there I bridged it to the series/parallel - I also tried it the other way around - but this way the slide-switch has no effect at all.
I'd like it to work in the lead circuit instead.
can anyone of you please tell me where my mistake(s) could be?
also, in the original state the 3 slide switches were connected with each other through some kind of wire - it now isn't anymore - could this be any problem?
bonus question: the surf 90s came with the kwik-plug system (quite nice... if only all the other pickup manufactures had something like that - allowing for easy interchange of pickups) - well,... the cable splits into 3: a red one (signal+ = hot?) a white one (grounding?) and a silver/uncoated wire (also grounding?) should these two stay (meaning be grounded and soldered) together?
thank you for your advice!
this seems to be an old thread but maybe someone of you can help.
I've lately received a pair of GFS Surf 90s and wanted to put them in my jag. I had P-Rails in it. They were nice and fat and versatile - but somehow a little bit too dark sounding...for a Jag... so it's time for some pickup experiments!
I want my jag to have series/parallel switch in the middle of the three slide switches, strangler-switch as usual and the rhythm-lead switch should be where the neck pu is controlled normally. a 3-way toggle (controlling the lead circuit) is in the place where the rhythm-lead-switch was (as a 13 year Les Paul player I'm just used to that position)
I mixed some diagrams to hopefully fit my needs.
I used a standard Jaguar and a standard Jazzmaster Wiring-diagram (Seymour Duncan) and the posts of Shadoweclipse13 and empyrean (as seen below) for guidance. by the way. first soldering experience ever.
the strangle switch is working in all positions (thanks to shadoweclipse13's diagram). the 3 way switch is working. the rhythm-switch is working. but somehow the rhythm volume can't be rolled off entirely. It's either fat and juicy on the one side or thinned out on the other side. It's nice though... but not what was intended. the tone knob seems to work. also some buzzing when touching the rhythm-chrome plate.
the series parallel switch seems to be only working in the rhythm position, when the toggle is in the middle position (pu runs directly to the rhythm/lead slide and from there I bridged it to the series/parallel - I also tried it the other way around - but this way the slide-switch has no effect at all.
I'd like it to work in the lead circuit instead.
can anyone of you please tell me where my mistake(s) could be?
also, in the original state the 3 slide switches were connected with each other through some kind of wire - it now isn't anymore - could this be any problem?
bonus question: the surf 90s came with the kwik-plug system (quite nice... if only all the other pickup manufactures had something like that - allowing for easy interchange of pickups) - well,... the cable splits into 3: a red one (signal+ = hot?) a white one (grounding?) and a silver/uncoated wire (also grounding?) should these two stay (meaning be grounded and soldered) together?
thank you for your advice!
Shadoweclipse13 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2017 2:06 pmSorry it took so long, crazy week! The Jazzmaster schematic is perfect. Everything should work well there, BUT, be aware that there will be a dead spot if you have the series-parallel switch in the series mode and have the 3-way toggle set to the bridge pickup. For series, the 3-way toggle has to be set in the neck pickup position. Nothing wrong with that, just the way it is.
For the Jaguar schematic, everything is good except the bass cut switch. It might work ok, but it might work better if you wire it like this:
Otherwise, it's all good
- Shadoweclipse13
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Have any pictures of what you've got?
You said you've got a Jag with lead circuit volume and tone, standard rhythm circuit, 3-way toggle, strangle switch, and series-parallel switch, correct? Do you have a picture of what schematic you used for the rhythm circuit? If you can't turn the volume all the way off, I'm wondering if the rhythm volume is wired backwards...
You said you've got a Jag with lead circuit volume and tone, standard rhythm circuit, 3-way toggle, strangle switch, and series-parallel switch, correct? Do you have a picture of what schematic you used for the rhythm circuit? If you can't turn the volume all the way off, I'm wondering if the rhythm volume is wired backwards...
Pickup Switching Mad Scientist
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384
- MayTheFuzzBeWithYou
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
so, I used this diagram for the rhythm channel.
also this helped me to deal with the toggle.
the rhythm channel of these two seems to differ in one point (no condensation/resistor between them but directly to the pot on the jag diagram)
this is my current status - I tried something in the meantime - which only bypassed/outphased the bridge pu. And now that I've tried it again I got the picture that the rhythm channel's tone Pot isn't doing anything.
sorry for the big wires - but the thin ones I had weren't long enough and the friend of mine who borrows me his soldering station only had those thick wires to offer...
red wire (to white) goes to the toggle) and the other white wire to the 50k pot.
maybe if I desolder the grounding wire from the toggle - because it interferes with the other circuit?
also this helped me to deal with the toggle.
the rhythm channel of these two seems to differ in one point (no condensation/resistor between them but directly to the pot on the jag diagram)
this is my current status - I tried something in the meantime - which only bypassed/outphased the bridge pu. And now that I've tried it again I got the picture that the rhythm channel's tone Pot isn't doing anything.
sorry for the big wires - but the thin ones I had weren't long enough and the friend of mine who borrows me his soldering station only had those thick wires to offer...
red wire (to white) goes to the toggle) and the other white wire to the 50k pot.
maybe if I desolder the grounding wire from the toggle - because it interferes with the other circuit?
- MayTheFuzzBeWithYou
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- Posts: 2408
- Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2017 12:28 am
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Okay. I maybe have messed things up with the directions... what's right/left/up/down on the plans...
I have exchanged the yellow and the orange wire. Assuming they were wrong.
What's currently working: strangle switch, neck pickup, Rhythm-switch.
What's still not working: bridge pickup in the lead circuit, rhythm-circuit controls,
What's super weird: when I'm engaging the what I'm the assuming to be the series mode on the switch - the lead circuit volume knob becomes a selector of the two pickups - rolling the volume back: more bridge pu - all the way up: neck pu.
So if anyone could come up with a working wiring diagram for my case I'd be extremely glad and thankful.
I have exchanged the yellow and the orange wire. Assuming they were wrong.
What's currently working: strangle switch, neck pickup, Rhythm-switch.
What's still not working: bridge pickup in the lead circuit, rhythm-circuit controls,
What's super weird: when I'm engaging the what I'm the assuming to be the series mode on the switch - the lead circuit volume knob becomes a selector of the two pickups - rolling the volume back: more bridge pu - all the way up: neck pu.
So if anyone could come up with a working wiring diagram for my case I'd be extremely glad and thankful.
- Shadoweclipse13
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Re: Series/parallel wiring diagram for JM
Those Seymour Duncan schematics are weird. You're right in that they differ with where the capacitor is placed, but they're also different in where the wire that goes from the 50K linear tone pot back to the selector switch too. Very strange.
I'm not seeing much from your actual wiring, though admittedly, I only slept 3.5/4 hours today I'll draw you up a single schematic for this to make it so you don't have to cut-and-paste so-to-speak from different schematics. Let me know if you figure it out before I get done with the schematic!
EDIT: Just curious, what's the 3rd switch for on your diamond plate? You said you've got a series-parallel and a bass cut/strangle switch. It could be the tired again, but I looked back through posts and didn't see what that 3rd switch was for...
I'm not seeing much from your actual wiring, though admittedly, I only slept 3.5/4 hours today I'll draw you up a single schematic for this to make it so you don't have to cut-and-paste so-to-speak from different schematics. Let me know if you figure it out before I get done with the schematic!
EDIT: Just curious, what's the 3rd switch for on your diamond plate? You said you've got a series-parallel and a bass cut/strangle switch. It could be the tired again, but I looked back through posts and didn't see what that 3rd switch was for...
Pickup Switching Mad Scientist
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384