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Unadan wrote:Thinking of ordering a Mustang bridge as a drop-in replacement for my 7.25" radius neck 60s Lacquer Jazzmaster (MiM). Anyone else mod this model with the Mustang bridge? If so did you use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AYINB6/re" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 9XIR7459J6

That's the good one—no gaps between the saddles, no adjustment screws, nothing to go wrong. You'll have to experiment with your bridge height, you may have to adjust the saddle heights by filing the bottom of any saddles that are too high for your radius.

Check the post width.

I've got a fairly modified CP jag. One of the upgrades was that the previous owner put a vintage style 7.25" radius neck on it and swapped out the TOM/AOM bridge for a mustang bridge (without replacing the thimbles...). Despite the fact that mustang bridges are supposed to have the saddle heights fixed to a 7.25" radius, I've noticed that the low/high E strings are higher off the fretboard than the D/G strings. Am I the only one with radius mismatch between a mustang bridge and a 7.25" radius neck? I'm considering upgrading to the staytrem bridge if it can resolve the radius issue (and have narrower string spacing).

Useful thread, good info!

Best fix for bridge height screw backing down? Bought a new Squier Jaguar Vintage Modified. Set it up myself, put 11's on and it plays pretty well. Only problem is about an hour into playing, high side of bridge works it's way down to bottom out. Screw it back out, repeat. It's a little frustrating. Tape, loctite, has anybody had success with this problem?

Loctite blue or purple.

Thanks! I'll start with the purple loctite. I'm thinking I might apply it installed, leaving the allen wrench in the nut and applying with a sharpened wooden q-tip. If not, then disassemble.

Loctite cures anerobically, ie, in the absence of oxygen, so it won't set on the exposed parts of the thread,ie unassembled.

fisonic wrote:Loctite cures anerobically, ie, in the absence of oxygen, so it won't set on the exposed parts of the thread,ie unassembled.

^ Yeah, this is spot on. It will only 'wick' into the mating threaded sections slightly if you just dump it on top of the fastener[*]; better to apply it to the threads properly, as per the usage guide.


[*] I can only assume this is what people were doing when they complain that 'loctite didn't work for me'.

I had loose saddles on my JMJM strings 4-6. Someone somewhere mentioned fingernail polish underneath. That may have solved it. By that time I already ordered the GFS TOM a direct drop in. The gfs comes with inserts and studs that I didn't need to use. Murphy's law--I needed them a while back and couldn't find any so ended up buying a Gibson bridge assembly just for the studs and inserts. This concludes my story.

[quote][^ Yeah, this is spot on. It will only 'wick' into the mating threaded sections slightly if you just dump it on top of the fastener[*]; better to apply it to the threads properly, as per the usage guide./quote]

Argh! So if I get this right, I have to set proper bridge height, remove strings, remove bridge, loctite height adjuster screws, install bridge, restring?

Apply it (sparingly) to the threads, back the screws out half a dozen turns to spread it around, then set the fastener height.

Excellent article...Helped me immensely. After setting up my Jaguar and using Locktite on the intonation and saddle screws had to go back and Locktite the bridge height adjustment screws. The bridge would actually lower itself overnight.

What about Staytrem bridges?

I absolutely disagree with the "Bridge Tilt" section.
If the bridge is in the middle it will inevitably slip to the forward or back position. Then your harmonics will be wrong, and tuning for that matter when it slips into it's natural position when playing.
All the JM and Jags I've had, the bridge rests in the forward (toward the pickups) position and still has room to bend down a good semitone or more.
In this position the bridge is rock solid will stay in tune better than anything else I've played.
It will not buzz against the thumbles - I've never had that.
The buzzing is from the saddles vibrating against each other or the height screws being loose.
I've said before, a nail file to cut a groove and a bottle of clear finger nail polish will fix it up - A whopping $2 purchase.
Yes I have/had strats,Teles, Gibsons etc...
Even Staytrem doesn't seem to know this from what they said on email so maybe you guys can keep the bridge perfectly upright but I surely cannot.

Does anyone know if the bridge on the new American Pro Jaguar/Jazzmaster has the 55.5mm spacing or 52mm?