skern wrote: ↑
Thu Jul 11, 2019 5:31 pm
I don't understand why shorter screws gives you more action adjustability. It seems that if anything is limiting adjustability, it's the springs. To be honest, I don't even see why these springs are necessary.
Range of string height action
adjustability - not intonation - is increased with shorter screws because of physical limitations. If you adjust the standard screws high enough, the ends will hit the strings - in particular with the low E and G strings, which are farthest from the tips of the intonation screws typically. If you don't cut the screw short, people wind up doing things to fudge it - like putting the string to one side of the screw, or otherwise compromising the setup. So if you do cut, the idea then becomes - figure out where your intonation roughly needs to be set, and (leaving a bit extra in case,) cut off the remainder, or enough of it. EDIT
: It occurs to me you may be confusing intonation screws with height-adjustment screws, which would explain why you referred to the Mustang bridge saddles as having adjustable action even though that is atypical. Can you please post a pic. of the specific bridge you mean? (Since there are Mustang bridges that are height-adjustable?)
The springs are actually quite necessary, since without them the saddle can slip around and again buzz. It's wise to have quite stiff springs that are at or near the bottom of their compression when you get the intonation adjusted - I have just stretched springs w/ needle-nose pliers to give this effect. This gives you a very, very tight bridge that won't rattle.
In either case - the springs shouldn't interfere with adjusting the action, or that interference should be minimal/only outside of the intended range of operation. But limit intonation adjustment? I suppose long springs could do that, in which case I'd cut them to make them mostly compressed wherever I needed them.
And I don't understand why a higher bridge has a greater range of motion. The bridge rocks until the posts hit the thimbles, not until the baseplate hits the pickguard, right?
The movement of the bridge is limited to it knocking against the internal edges post/thimbles - which means that any amount of height you adjust the posts above
the thimbles will still be limited by the bridge rocking within the same degree of an arc. However, because of geometry, the longer your bridge posts are, the more lateral distance the saddle will cover when it rocks.
Think about it this way - if I take a couple toothpicks and separate them at a 10 degree angle then measure the distance between the tips of each toothpick, the distance is tiny. Now if I take two meter sticks and separate them at a 10 degree angle, the distance between the points is much farther. Now - what if you take a laser pointer and point it to the sky, then move it 10 degrees to shine from one star to another? Now the distance is light-years.
What I was implying though is that while yes, longer posts will give you more range to rock - it isn't necessary to actually do that, because at their minimum, the bridge rocks about as much as it needs to.