Question about the new American Professional Bridge as a replacement for the unavailable Staytrem

[Sadbastard]

Hey all, first post. I searched the forum for a while to find this particular topic but haven't turned up anything this specific. So, here goes. I'm a new Jazzmaster owner, having recently purchased the C.M.E. Lake Placid Blue Jazzmaster Classic Player. Love it, except for the bridge (adjust-o-matic). I've found it does not lend itself to wild tremolo dips.

And, as has been covered many times over, there aren't any good drop-in replacement options aside from a long since sold out Staytrem specifically for that model. And they aren't selling them stateside nowadays anyway. In searching for a non-Mastery replacement, I think I've found a potential candidate in the American Professional Jazzmaster Bridge. It seems the guitars share the 9.5 radius, and that bridge uses a similar Mustang/Staytrem design in that the post rocks back and forth.

Obviously, I'll have to get a luthier to do some routing, as the posts are different. Has anyone searched for a bridge replacement tried this as an option? You can't order the AmPro Bridge directly from Fender, but it's available through third-party dealers at around $65 yo $75 bucks.

Thoughts?

[Debaser]

I'd like to recommend an ABM 2400 roller bridge, IME the best roller around. I used them on Gretsch guitars. They would be a drop in replacement. Problem is they come with a 12" radius. Custom stuff has been mentioned, but you have to contact ABM in Germany. I personally would deal with the mismatch, the rolling saddles combined with the bridge post lock would make it better than any Mustang/Staytrem variety.

[timtam]

I saw somewhere recently a suggestion for getting close to the Staytrem screw-in posts for AOMs. You get short grub screws of the same gauge as the AOM bushings. You take the AOM bushings out of the body (using the easy 'screw' technique) and then screw the grub screws into them from underneath (ie upside down), since they are open at the bottom. Then you put the bushing back in. That way the slightly cupped base of the grub screw is on top. Then you drop in a Mustang-style or original-style JM/jag bridge, with its height screws sitting on the cupped top of the grub screw. So it rocks a little, like it should.

It would take a bit of measurement to get grub screws of the right length, so that the effective depth in the AOM bushing is about the same as the Mustang thimble depth. And you would also need to check that the post spacings of AOM and the bridge are the same.

There is also the simple option for getting a Mustang bridge onto an AOM of simply drilling out the Mustang bridge's posts and using that hole to sit the bridge on top of the AOMs posts.

[Sadbastard]

Thanks for the replies. I'd likely go the route TimTam suggested, although in the hands of an experienced luthier. I'd be afraid I'd wreck the wood or finish.

[raindog13]

There is also the simple option for getting a Mustang bridge onto an AOM of simply drilling out the Mustang bridge's posts and using that hole to sit the bridge on top of the AOMs posts.

Do we have any feedback on how well this actually works? Didn't Staytrem even produce something to this effect at one point?

[mizbiz]

There is also the simple option for getting a Mustang bridge onto an AOM of simply drilling out the Mustang bridge's posts and using that hole to sit the bridge on top of the AOMs posts.

Do we have any feedback on how well this actually works? Didn't Staytrem even produce something to this effect at one point?

Yes, it works perfectly fine going this route. The bridge will be non-rocking though, but if you're fine with that, it is a very effective mod. And yes, the first version of the StayTrem AOM replacement bridge was in fact this exact drop in replacement option, as shown in the link below.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/ ... 1056161151

[timtam]

There is also the simple option for getting a Mustang bridge onto an AOM of simply drilling out the Mustang bridge's posts and using that hole to sit the bridge on top of the AOMs posts.

Do we have any feedback on how well this actually works? Didn't Staytrem even produce something to this effect at one point?

Procedure for putting Mustang bridge onto AOM posts described here ....
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/vie ... hp?t=33498

Experiences welcome.

[postpostrock]

The mastery bridges seem to be split evenly love/hate.

I also have the CME Lake Placid Blue Jazzmaster. I had CME set it up with a mastery. I love it. It’s pricier than a lot of options. I have the TOM bridge on my J Mascis and I will change that over to a mastery when finances permit.

[Sadbastard]

So, as an update, I ended up going the route TimTam suggested and I'm quite pleased with the results.

I ended up purchasing a new American Pro Jazzmaster Bridge because it matches the specs of the Classic Player radius and string spread. I ordered mine from Darren Riley: https://darrenriley.com/store/fender-am ... 709942000/

I took it to the repair man at my local Guitar Center and explained what I found in the article. He matched up where the posts would be relative to the newer bridge, then used a reamer to enlarge the existing holes after removing the bushings. Fairly easy once he wrapped his head around the procedure, he said. Take a look:











Other mods I did to the CME exclusive were:
- Witch hat knobs, because I think they look cooler
- Tremolo spring to keep the arm in a good spot (pro tip here, the springs that Fender sells are meant for Strats, so you have to cut off at least one coil of the spring for it to fit in the Jazzmaster socket)
- White pickguard from Warmoth (never been a fan of tort pickguards)

I love the way it plays with the different bridge, and while the trem doesn't rock back and forth, it definitely feels smoother than the AOM bridge. Let me know what you think.

[timtam]

I ended up purchasing a new American Pro Jazzmaster Bridge because it matches the specs of the Classic Player radius and string spread. I ordered mine from Darren Riley: https://darrenriley.com/store/fender-am ... 709942000/

I took it to the repair man at my local Guitar Center and explained what I found in the article. He matched up where the posts would be relative to the newer bridge, then used a reamer to enlarge the existing holes after removing the bushings. Fairly easy once he wrapped his head around the procedure, he said.

Looks like he did a nice job. Glad it worked out.