Anybody have some tips or techniques to share?
I’m replacing the bridge on my 05 MIK Casino and reckon I’ll need to slot the saddles. The current bridge has slots in the middle of each saddle, and the strings line up pretty damn perfect with the pole pieces. I figure I can get a preslotted bridge, but I’ll still need to file to the proper string gauge.
Is there a reasonable way to do this without purchasing nut/saddle files? It’s my only TOM guitar, and I don’t foresee owning any more for the time being. The files may be too extravagant of a purchase. Anyone had success with more modestly priced tools?
I want to do it myself, but I realize the outlay of money coupled with inexperience could lead to a costly and fucked up bridge.
It may just be worth it to suck it up and have a luthier do the job. But what do the offset masses say?
Another option is the “bang the string with a hammer” technique, but I’d still need to smooth the slots. Any tips if going that route?
Slotting saddles on an ABR-1
- Vanderfuzz
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- oid
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Re: Slotting saddles on an ABR-1
I just use a rat tail file for such things, decent small diameter rat tails of good length and taper to a fine enough point to do b's and e's are not cheap though, not easy to find either. You could likely get by with a standard hardware store rat tail needle and a single nut file that is suitably gauged for the b on one side and the e on the other, likely the cheapest route and you do not have to worry about snapping an expensive slender rat tail.
As for cutting them, I generally start the slot with a fret saw (little fine bladed copping saw type) or triangular needle file to give the rat tail something to follow, slope the slot towards the tail piece, I tend to give them a nice radius instead of just sloping, reduces tuning issues and breakage, a must if there is a trem involved. That is about all there is to it, watch the depths and make sure to maintain radius, go slow and check your progress often.
If you got a luthier this sort of thing can be surprisingly cheap, it is a quick simple job for a practiced hand and not all luthiers feel a need for a bench fee and an hours minimum labor. Depending on what the new bridge is you may be able to just swap in your old saddles if there is nothing wrong with them.
As for cutting them, I generally start the slot with a fret saw (little fine bladed copping saw type) or triangular needle file to give the rat tail something to follow, slope the slot towards the tail piece, I tend to give them a nice radius instead of just sloping, reduces tuning issues and breakage, a must if there is a trem involved. That is about all there is to it, watch the depths and make sure to maintain radius, go slow and check your progress often.
If you got a luthier this sort of thing can be surprisingly cheap, it is a quick simple job for a practiced hand and not all luthiers feel a need for a bench fee and an hours minimum labor. Depending on what the new bridge is you may be able to just swap in your old saddles if there is nothing wrong with them.
Logic gates based on billiard-ball computer designs have also been made to operate using live soldier crabs of the species Mictyris guinotae in place of the billiard balls.
- timtam
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Re: Slotting saddles on an ABR-1
Another option once the slot is started is abrasive cord ...
https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_S ... _Cord.html
https://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_S ... _Cord.html
"I just knew I wanted to make a sound that was the complete opposite of a Les Paul, and that’s pretty much a Jaguar." Rowland S. Howard.
- oid
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Re: Slotting saddles on an ABR-1
The cord is quite fine grit, would be very slow for anything but final polishing which a $1 sheet of wet/dry handles very well.
Useful stuff to have around though.
Useful stuff to have around though.
Logic gates based on billiard-ball computer designs have also been made to operate using live soldier crabs of the species Mictyris guinotae in place of the billiard balls.