OffsetGuitars.com

MuffFuzz wrote: I didn't feel like making another thread about the mustang bridge so I decided to post it here.

I've got a mustang bridge coming in the mail soon and wanted to know if putting the electrical tape around the bridge posts was pretty manditory? I also read somewhere(I think it was here) that you could just detune all the strings; while lifting them up and unscrew your current bridge; then put in the new one. Does this actually work too? I was going to take it to a tech and let him deal with it but If this isn't so difficult then i'd rather fine tune my own instrument.

The bridge just lifts out, no unscrewing required.  Capo the first fret, so the strings don't come out of the tuners before detuning.  Loosen the strings, then the bridge just comes out, and drop the new one in.  Set the bridge height with an allen wrench, intonate, and you are done! There are no individual string height screws, so it's pretty simple...

Thanks a lot. You guys and your wisdom never fails! Oh and another question, will the trem be affected because of the change in bridges?

MuffFuzz wrote: Thanks a lot. You guys and your wisdom never fails! Oh and another question, will the trem be affected because of the change in bridges?

Shouldn't be.  Just make sure when you tune the strings back up, that the bridge is centered in the thimbles.

I'm relatively new to Jazzmasters, and I know this will be no big revelation to anyone who's familiar with them, but I felt the need to post here because I just had a major epiphany/discovery/breakthrough/awakening about a buzzing issue on my JM bridge. The guitar had what I'd describe as a HORRIBLE buzzing at the bridge...no matter what string or fret I played anywhere on the neck it was just one big huge buzzfest. I tried repositioning the bridge (it was tilted slightly back), tried pushing the saddles together, tried pushing on everything really...and nothing worked...still buzzing up a storm. I was afraid I'd have to do some kind of major overhaul and wrap tape everywhere and swap out the bridge or something. 


So finally I took a real close look at the saddle height screws and noticed one of them on the G saddle was slightly lower (and I mean barely perceptible) than the other screw. I got out the allen wrench and made like a quarter turn on that screw...and ALAKAZAM...the buzzing completely disappeared, as in TOTALLY GONE. 


Amazing that one little quarter turn on one small screw can solve the entire problem. 

the G saddle was my problem saddle too. Even more so, because i like unwound G strings. i just took some clear nail polish to the saddle screws and they haven't worked their way out ever again. plus sweat/rust helps as well. just keep an eye on the tilting bridge, too far of a tilt and you got buzz city again.

okay, i've been having no problems with mine lately, the only thing is that if i hadnt set up the saddle height screws at the exact same height, they tend to lean on one side more than the other when i bend and it keeps clicking when i bend down, this i fixed, but it comes back every once in a while.

i'm not going to switch it for a mustang bridge or a t-o-m cause it totally rocks and i dont think i want to swap it out.

Here is another solution for the loose screws that hold up the bridge. Put a self locking nut on the end  of the screw and tighten it against the bottom of the bridge. They are about the same diameter as the bridge post and will not interfere with the tremolo. The bridge will be stable. I did mine about 5 years ago and have not touched it since. You can get  self locking nuts at a model airplane store. Double brass nuts will also work; tighten them tightly against each other after bottoming out against the post.

I was curious as to whether it would be a good idea to swap out the stock bridge for one of those Adjusto-Matic bridges found in the J Mascis JM's?

Reiko wrote: I was curious as to whether it would be a good idea to swap out the stock bridge for one of those Adjusto-Matic bridges found in the J Mascis JM's?

read the second post in this thread. there's a section in the FAQs about tune-o-matics (and adjusto-matics).

has anyone used silicone surgical tubing on their bridge posts? i think i read about it somewhere but i might have invented it.

This may be stated somewhere else, but I haven't seen it. And i think it belongs in this thread:

I had a big problem with jumping strings on the saddles on my MIJ JM - A problem I didn't have on my 62 JM (though hysterical low action and a very "plain" string angle over the bridge). This I tried to solve with tilting the saddles - following the curve of the radius. The strings still jumped AND the bridge buzzed.... After a study what differed the two guitars made me realize that the string spacing/string-hole pattern on the tremoloes was different between the MIJ and the vintage one. The 62 had a bit wider spacing and made the strings run more straight over the bridge, while the MIJ tremolo, with a narrower spacing, pulled the strings towards the middle (it was the outer strings wich the jumping occured to). After changing the MIJ tremolo to a 65 vintage one the jumping dissapeared! That is maybe not the cheapest way to solve the problem, but to me it was worth it.

Here is a photo of the 'locking nut' mehod to stop the bridge posts unwinding. I actually just use a single ordinary nut and this works fine as well

Marc wrote: Here is a photo of the 'locking nut' mehod to stop the bridge posts unwinding. I actually just use a single ordinary nut and this works fine as well

Great idea!

Does it effect sustain at all... I mean positively?

Since I got some spare time yesterday, and just because I got a new gotoh TOM to put in my JM (the nashville TOM that I already  have in is gone deaf because of my countinously modifications..) before to put it in the guitar I've done this..

That's an accurate (at least for me) way to know how much you've to file down your saddles to match 7 1/2" fender radius..
obviously the 6th saddles is the same of the 1st and the 2nd is the same of the 5th..

P.S.
measuraments are in millimeters.

the older brother wrote: This may be stated somewhere else, but I haven't seen it. And i think it belongs in this thread:

I had a big problem with jumping strings on the saddles on my MIJ JM - A problem I didn't have on my 62 JM (though hysterical low action and a very "plain" string angle over the bridge). This I tried to solve with tilting the saddles - following the curve of the radius. The strings still jumped AND the bridge buzzed.... After a study what differed the two guitars made me realize that the string spacing/string-hole pattern on the tremoloes was different between the MIJ and the vintage one. The 62 had a bit wider spacing and made the strings run more straight over the bridge, while the MIJ tremolo, with a narrower spacing, pulled the strings towards the middle (it was the outer strings wich the jumping occured to). After changing the MIJ tremolo to a 65 vintage one the jumping dissapeared! That is maybe not the cheapest way to solve the problem, but to me it was worth it.

Does anyone know if this applies to the new AVRIs, too?  Or is this strictly a US vs Japan thing?  I think that'd be helpful to know and could potentially save people some $$.