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Danocaster wrote:I should also point out that my process needs to start with completely raw bare wood - without even a sealer on it

So let's say (hypothetically, of course) that someone had a 12/58 strat neck that needed frets, and had been refinished in nitro at some point along the way, with a decal that was suspect... like, it's been sprayed over and might not be the original decal.

Would it be possible to send that neck to you to "restore" that neck using your method, put a good repro decal on, refret it (all in one shebang), and still preserve the 12/58 neck date on the butt end?

jbiscuti wrote:
If you can wait a couple of months...

I'll try and rush that thru for you John !

øøøøøøø wrote:

Danocaster wrote:I should also point out that my process needs to start with completely raw bare wood - without even a sealer on it

So let's say (hypothetically, of course) that someone had a 12/58 strat neck that needed frets, and had been refinished in nitro at some point along the way, with a decal that was suspect... like, it's been sprayed over and might not be the original decal.

Would it be possible to send that neck to you to "restore" that neck using your method, put a good repro decal on, refret it (all in one shebang), and still preserve the 12/58 neck date on the butt end?

no - not really... I can spray nitro OVER my finish - but I can't do the oil combo OVER a nitro finish. On a vintage MAPLE neck , if it needed new frets - I would go to somebody with a plek machine and say" don't touch the neck finish". I dont care on a rosewood board - but no reason to plane a vintage maple fretboard unless there is SERIOUS issues

Danocaster wrote:

øøøøøøø wrote:

Danocaster wrote:I should also point out that my process needs to start with completely raw bare wood - without even a sealer on it

So let's say (hypothetically, of course) that someone had a 12/58 strat neck that needed frets, and had been refinished in nitro at some point along the way, with a decal that was suspect... like, it's been sprayed over and might not be the original decal.

Would it be possible to send that neck to you to "restore" that neck using your method, put a good repro decal on, refret it (all in one shebang), and still preserve the 12/58 neck date on the butt end?

no - not really... I can spray nitro OVER my finish - but I can't do the oil combo OVER a nitro finish. On a vintage MAPLE neck , if it needed new frets - I would go to somebody with a plek machine and say" don't touch the neck finish". I dont care on a rosewood board - but no reason to plane a vintage maple fretboard unless there is SERIOUS issues

I meant strip the non-original lacquer that's on there, and start from scratch! Is that not possible? This is a maple neck, of course, with a respray, already been refretted once, and I suspect an very good bootleg repro decal.

probably not.
this is from my furniture days, but to do a french polish finish, the wood needs to be super clean. I don't think you could ever strip an existing finish so completely, that you could remove all traces.

the only thing I can suggest is maybe to wet-sand back through the new coats, at least to where you can get that problem decal off.
just make sure it really is a crap decal, and not some ultra-rare, fender mis-run, 3 days only headstock decal...

øøøøøøø wrote: I meant strip the non-original lacquer that's on there, and start from scratch! Is that not possible? This is a maple neck, of course, with a respray, already been refretted once, and I suspect an very good bootleg repro decal.

yeah - if you pulled the frets and sanded back to bare wood and wiped it clean with lacquer thinner - I think it wouldn't be much of a problem

Danocaster wrote:

øøøøøøø wrote: I meant strip the non-original lacquer that's on there, and start from scratch! Is that not possible? This is a maple neck, of course, with a respray, already been refretted once, and I suspect an very good bootleg repro decal.

yeah - if you pulled the frets and sanded back to bare wood and wiped it clean with lacquer thinner - I think it wouldn't be much of a problem

very interesting. I might be in touch in the future. I'd really like to try one of your necks and see what it feels like. I hope this doesn't constitute "trading on the main forum," for me its really about learning how to get this neck to feel like it should given what it is.

So, this happened today....



Yikes!!

I'm going to use some of the info in this thread to see if I can get close to how my old Jazzmaster neck feels. I'm hoping to avoid using any kind of aerosol and might completely do away with another amber tint (good riddance to that old fake tan), opting for a more natural, oil-based finish. I'll definitely use something that'll darken the maple somewhat.

I don't want to hijack this thread though so I'll probably dig out my old build thread & tack stuff on the end.

Have you try true oil?
I Am finishing a. Neck to try it ,the féel is different from varnish

One last thing I'm basing my finish on. This video, as hilariously awkward as it is to begin with, gives some great info on the look & feel of various oils.

I think, after a little consideration, I'll use several layers of Linseed Oil followed by a couple of layers of Danish Oil or Tru oil (that'll work more as a laquer). I may hit the final finish with 0000 steel wool to get the feel right.

PorkyPrimeCut wrote:One last thing I'm basing my finish on. This video, as hilariously awkward as it is to begin with, gives some great info on the look & feel of various oils.

I think, after a little consideration, I'll use several layers of Linseed Oil followed by a couple of layers of Danish Oil or Tru oil (that'll work more as a laquer). I may hit the final finish with 0000 steel wool to get the feel right.

That's how I always wanted to do it. Please do let us know how this works out. I'm sure it will feel amazing. I'm fan of the feel of oiled wood.

Does oiled wood sound in English as I suspect it sounds?

Here`s a neck I recently finished. Stained it first, then a couple of coats with tru-oil. After the tru-oil had been curing for a while, I hit it with some very fine steel wool and micromesh. It`s pretty darn close to my `68 in terms of feel.

I have one of Dan`s blackguards, built in feb this year. The neck feel on that is really nice!
The combination of the nicely rounded edges and "dry" finish is very close to my old one.

I think 'dry' is one of those operative words in trying to describe the feel. Not so much, sanded or smooth, but dry - almost the same same way people explain a dry sound, but applied to feel for purposes here. I like how it was mentioned that the finish almost becomes one with the neck, like it's literally been worn or soaked up into the wood itself.

I was playing my 63 Jaguar this weekend and had this thread in mind. There's a lot more finish on the upper part of the neck, mainly the cowboy chord area has been worn away, but the finish still has that feel. It's pretty elusive to say the least. I had Dano refin a guitar once and while that was awesome, I can't speak to the neck as the finish there was intact so we left it alone. I'd love to try one of his builds for the feel and setup alone.