Restoring a 65 Jaguar, needs OF forum's help! MORE PICS

[Gooner]

Extra string trees were added as an "improvement" over the years, ok its not as standard and would detract a little from a true collectors piece, but most guitars are for players ,so I would leave alone, like you said if the screw is rusty it may shear and if you do get it out then you need to fill and disguise. Not easy.

Re the stripped body, make sure that there are absolutely no traces of nitromors, this stuff can seriously affect your respray.

John

[Amber]

Part of me wants to refinish the headstock but I know it would be stupid. Will sanding the body tomorrow and making sure all the nitro mors has gone by rubbing it with Methloated spirit.

Still haven't got my Nitro in the mail. I still need a bridge and thimbles, might have to go with repro.

Will keep updated with pictures. I look forward to hearing how it sounds. I strummed my guitar against the pickups plugged in and they sounded great.

[Gooner]

Yes, or white spirit, something that will give the surfaces a clean and remove any little traces of the nitromors. I suppose as its an acid it eventually gets neutralised anyway, but if there is any left active it will bubble or craze your primer coat. I had this problem when I resprayed a bike tank, so I had to start again.
Another thing when using nitromors, wear surgical gloves or something to protect your skin (Maybe those gloves you get free at petrol stations for diesel) and glasses or goggles for your eyes. If you get it on your skin it takes a few seconds then it starts burning, not too much of a problem, but it can't be good for your eyes and you've only got two of them!

[Amber]

Here's an update. I'm not sure what to do right now with this guitar, I'm struggling to afford to restore the guitar, it seems I'll need more paint (£15 a can) and a clear nitro as well as the tinted.

I'm struggling to find knobs, mute, bridge and thimbles for this. Let alone repro thimbles as US retailers won't reply to me (maybe because I'm in the UK) Add onto that It'll need a new nut and setup.

I'm not sure what to think of the paint job. It's very windy lately and I'm on a short time scale to get this done and sold. I've got to allow for idiots on eBay as well. I need to move out within a month and have the cash to pay for deposit and rent.

Looking on eBay a 62 refin Jag went for just over £900. To be honest, I thought I'd earn more money on this as I've already spent a fair bit on it. Add onto that the stress of posting this item without a case I'm not sure what to do.

I really want to make a go of this and restore it and get it all right but I don't know if I'm going to have time or the skill or cash.

I'm thinking of parting it out as the best way for me to recoup what I've spent and maybe make some profit, less stress for posting it and I know that the state of the guitar as it is in now as a whole will lower it's value and put bidders off.

I feel bad for thinking this but I'm quite desperate for cash now and I'm not in a position to spend any more money.

What do you guys think?

[zhivago]

I think it all depends on how much you have invested on the guitar....if you need the money back, parting out would be the safer bet, I mean, personaly, I wouldn't pay too much for a guitar that I have to do loads to.

the UK market is pretty bad for offsets in general (apart from Jazz Basses, I guess), so I dunno...a friend of mine last year ebayed a Fiesta Red '65 Jag....matching heastock refin...it had all it's parts original...the guitar looked spectacular...and he made just over £800 from what I remember.


maybe you'll get lucky on ebay...who knows?

posting the bits for sale here first will also save you the ebay listing fees - another thing to consider....

I wish I could take on the project, but I don't have that much money available...plus, I have a stripped XII to refinish

[Amber]

I bought this without being too familiar with the right handed guitar market. I've bought and sold lefties for 4 years and always made money on them without even trying.

I guess the neck finish and decal on mine helps the value. We'll see what happens.

[sookwinder]

Let alone repro thimbles as US retailers won't reply to me

i know some here have had trouble with Guitar Parts Resource (i myself  had partial trouble on one purchase)  but they seem to have all the parts you are looking for.... and postage is cheap

[Amber]

I've emailed them several time and they won't reply to me for some reason.

[Amber]

Here's some pictures of the refin so far:









This is about 3/4 can of Oly White. I don't think much of the Manchester Guitar Tech sprays. They spit a lot and the nozzle is quite poor. You have to really squeeze it.

The finish is quite rough now, almost like an aero in places. The ReRanch guys say you shouldn't sand this out and just clear coat it as they melt together.

If you notice I've done a lot of filling on the body near the bridge. I'm pretty happy with the work I've done. I repaired the guage for the grounding cable to the bridge.

Now I don't know whether to get a clear nitro gloss to spray on it before I use the tinted nitro. I've read you should use the clear to keep the tinting even but I don't want to spend even more money.

What do you guys think?

[Santiago!]

awesome! great work so far!!!

[GTO]

This is about 3/4 can of Oly White. I don't think much of the Manchester Guitar Tech sprays. They spit a lot and the nozzle is quite poor. You have to really squeeze it.

I think what you have done is not put enough paint on if you have only used 3/4 and are already looking at clear coating. The paint should have a wet appearence when applied and it should 'pool' and find its own level each time you apply a coat. To do this with a spray can you'll need to move quickly round and around the body again and again until the paint is sufficient depth that this pooling starts to happen. And that amounts to just one coat of paint. Every coat needs the same approach. And as nitro will dry down a lot, two or three coats would be minimum for me. If you are not able to get wet coats, and or the can is spitting, you should warm the can in a bowl of hot water for five minutes before spraying. This gets the pressure up.

But you have so much orange peel on there that clear coat will not level the surface, and even so, you still need to apply clear on the basis of fully 'wet' coats that pool (it is a fine line between 'pool' and 'run'). So if it were me taking the job out of your hands I'd rub it down smooth with 800 grit wet'n'dry, and try for another two full wet coats. The leave it to dry down for a few days before deciding on the clear coat regime.

[Soiouz]

Here's some pictures of the refin so far:









This is about 3/4 can of Oly White. I don't think much of the Manchester Guitar Tech sprays. They spit a lot and the nozzle is quite poor. You have to really squeeze it.

The finish is quite rough now, almost like an aero in places. The ReRanch guys say you shouldn't sand this out and just clear coat it as they melt together.

If you notice I've done a lot of filling on the body near the bridge. I'm pretty happy with the work I've done. I repaired the guage for the grounding cable to the bridge.

Now I don't know whether to get a clear nitro gloss to spray on it before I use the tinted nitro. I've read you should use the clear to keep the tinting even but I don't want to spend even more money.

What do you guys think?

Good job, but I thought you would repair the routing before finishing it... 

[Amber]

What Routing?

[fenderjapan]

What Routing?

i think he's talking about this:

[Soiouz]

What Routing?

i think he's talking about this:

Exactly, fenderjapan!! Those routes between the control cavities and the pickup cavities are not original and I said earlier that you should definitely fill them before refinishing the guitar. Especially with a white body, they will show in the gaps between the control plates and the pickguard.