Verify 1960s Jazzmaster body

[sounderstudios]

Recently purchased a refin Jazzmaster that may be a 1962. Is there any way to determine a date range for the body based on routing or other features? The cavities were sprayed so I cant tell if it is really a 62 and what the original color was. Thanks in advance!

[will]

The contours became less pronounced over time - a '62 should have nice arm/belly contours.
Also, I think a 62 would probably still have the tall bridge thimbles, though it was a transitional year for those.

You can try scraping away paint under the pickup shields, or in the trem rout, but the pencil markings aren't always there.

[bencrit]

I would concur with what was said above. It would also help if we had some pictures to look at. Just click the "IMG" button the subject line. In between the two brackets that appear paste a link to an image shack or photobook Address where you have uploaded the pictures.

You can also tell if it's original by whether or not you see nail holes, or the remnants thereof. You should see one is right around the neck pocket, as well as one by the corner where the pick guard goes by the input jack, and in a couple other spots. They should jump out to you.

[sounderstudios]

Here are some photos. The pickups are not original. Neck is dated, three of the four pots are dated 1961 and 1962. Just trying to determine the vintage of the refinished body at this stage.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[bencrit]

I'm not seeing the nail holes in the right spot, but they could just be caked with paint and fill them since it looks like that finish is pretty thick. It kind of looks like there is one covered in paint in the screw hole near the input check, but it's tough to see. There might be one in the thin area of wood between the neck pickup and the neck pocket, but all I can see is an indentation. You'd have to inspect it visually to see if it looks like there is a nail hole under there.

Also, that little hole in the neck pocket between the four screw holes doesn't quite look right. I have seen it on Japanese jazzmaster bodies, I think. But I'm not sure if a vintage pick guard would fit the screw hole pattern on those.

I have to say it's inconclusive at this point, but those would be things I'd look into more. Overall, it does look right in terms of route patterns, etc.

[sounderstudios]

Thanks Bencrit. I wanted to get the pickguard back on as quickly as possible to prevent shrinkage. I'll screw it down to a surrogate board while I inspect things further. I can see that the original brass tray shields are in place under the controls. Maybe there will be an indication of the original color under there. The refin looks very old and not exactly professional. Sounded great at a gig last night but now that it's apart it will probably be in the project state for a while.

[bencrit]

If you know what I'm talking about in terms of nail holes, locate where they should be and look for indentations in the paint. You can use a needle to poke a hole through the paint to see if there is one underneath. I think that would be your best bet for originality.

There should also be one underneath the tremolo unit near a screw hole.

[andrewaward]

There is no earth hole from the main pots cavity to the trem cavity.........which started at some point in 62.........so that body is 62 or before, so it matches the neck.
This era body (that you have) was earthed via the bridge thimble and a bent piece of B string.

The brass shielding part is still in the roller pot area - covered in paint, and it looks vintage correct..........the brass shielding seems be missing from elsewhere.

Short bridge thimbles are OK for a 62.

I'm sure the nail holes will be there under the refin.

Router markings in main cavity and trem cavity look good also.

[sounderstudios]

Thank you andrewaward. I knew there were some features that would assist with a fairly accurate body date. I may remove some paint from the trem cavity to try to see if any of the original finish is present. Or perhaps under the brass shield. Seller was able to dig up the original knobs (strat type, not the 65 and later witch hats) and trem bar so most pieces are pointing towards 1962 vintage. I'm going to take my time with this one but will post more photos.

[andrewaward]

I would remove the paint from the bridge pickup cavity.....good chance that's where the date was.

Be worth while tracking down the rest of the brass body shielding also.

[PorkyPrimeCut]

I would remove the paint from the bridge pickup cavity.....good chance that's where the date was.

I've always meant to ask this. My Jazzmaster body is almost definitely '59 - '60. Even so, I'd love to find a date.

If I remember correctly, when I sanded off the old paint (it was refinned in an off-black colour) I left the cavaties alone. Then years later when it was properly refinned I've a feeling the guy who did the job left them alone too.

So, can you suggest an easy way for me to strip either one or both cavaties? Did the date sometimes appear in the bridge pickup cavity?

[andrewaward]

The way I do it is with nitromors, and I've never lost a date yet (assuming the pencil date is there, and hasn't been lost during a previous refin).

You have to be careful - and time it right (depending on how many layers you are burning through).........
Put on the mitromors and when the pain starts to "melt" wipe it away.......might be more unorig paint under that, so do the same again until it looks like the orig finish.

A 59/60 pencil date is more than likely to be in the pup cavity, that's where I've saw all of them.

[PorkyPrimeCut]

...Put on the mitromors and when the pain starts to "melt" wipe it away...

OK, so wipe with a rag, rather than gently scraping with a metal spatula?

[andrewaward]

yes, exactly

[sounderstudios]

Good tip on the paint stripper. I may be inclined to try that soon. As far as the pickguard, it has shrunk a bit (maybe 1/8") and is bulged between the two pups. I've been told that these celluloid guards need to be screwed down to a surrogate board as soon as they are removed. But not sure if they reach a stasis where the shrinking stops. Any thoughts on flattening the guard? I don't want it to shrink further and become unusable. As it stands the upper body route is starting to show ever so slightly. I want to do this job right so I'm taking my time with the resto.
Thanks!