Just built a Laika fuzz

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HH1978
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Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by HH1978 » Sun Mar 08, 2020 4:23 am

One month ago or so, I saw a Spaceman Sputnik II demo and found it sounded absolutely awesome. Then I discovered they sell used for 1500$ if you can find one. There's no way I'd spend so much for a pedal, so I made some research and found that Deadend FX sells a PCB to make a clone of the Sputnik II.

So I ordered the PCB, started to gather the parts, and here it is :

Image

This is a rather complex circuit for a fuzz, and not a cheap build (total of the parts, including the 1590BBS enclosure and shipping costs must be about 120-150€) but it's totally worth it in my opinion. I will do a better wiring job with shielded wire this week. Some caps values are odd in the original, so I used sometimes 2 caps in parallel to get in the ballpark. Germanium diode should be a D9E, but as it still in the mail from Bulgaria and can take some time to arrive, I used a similar 1N34 for now.

I could totally use it as my only fuzz pedal, considering how versatile it is. It can clean up with the guitar volume control like a fuzz face with the range (fuzz) knob at max and the calibrate knob backed, or get as thick as a Muff. The EQ switches are very efficient, one controlling the bass response and the other the high and mids.

The calibrate knob is really interesting. Backed off, I get typical smooth germanium fuzz sounds. At noon, it starts to add an edge and makes the pedal sound more like a silicon unit. Cranked, it introduces some filtering , and can produce an octave effect on the neck pickup with the guitar volume and tone backed a bit, but not like a typical octavia around the 12th fret, much more so on the first frets.

The pedal is quite sensitive to tone knob changes, and can sound like a cocked wah with the guitar tone control at 0. I was about buying the Magnetic Effects Double Feature for doing this, finally, I won't need it, still an awesome pedal though.

The second foot switch introduces the oscillation/gating effects ("drift mode"), and there are a lot of crazy sounds to get (still experimenting with that). A feature that wasn't present on the original Sputnik II is the diode reversal switch, which makes the Drift mode more subtle, a useful addition IMO.

I socketed the germanium transistors to be able to experiment, and I'm glad I did, as different trannies alter the character of the pedal quite a bit. Right now, I have a 2N1925 in Q2 and two russian 1T308B in Q3 and Q4, and I feel it's close to the sound I could hear in demos (original trannies are not identified, except they're russian ones), but I got totally different sounds, and really nice one too with 3 Mullard CV7005.

Final note : it's a complex circuit, but not a difficult build, as the PCB is clearly marked and the build docs are detailed. I would recommend it to anyone gassing for a Sputnik II. The original ones sold new for 499$ - 599$, depending on the version. While it's expensive, I can totally understand the price, given the 150$+ $ of parts involved, the build time and quality (if you look at an original's gut shot, it looks nothing like my clumsy homemade build, and about every part used is nos, no cheap modern caps as I used, for instance), and most importantly, time involved in designing such a circuit. Used prices reflect the rarity, as only about 100 of them were made, but except for a collector, I don't think anyone would buy one for 1500$.

Here's the original schematic :

Image

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by somanytoys » Sun Mar 08, 2020 10:06 am

Damn, that seems really nice. Looks like a nice job of putting it all together, and I think it was smart to socket it for other trannies, and your approximation of cap values.

Sounds like it’s a hell of a fuzz unit, and you made one for a really decent price, considering. Not that I’m all that familiar with them, but I’d be curious to know how the other parts that you’re waiting on sound in it, vs what you have in it now.

Very cool, thanks for posting all that.

Edit: the name Laika - was that the name of a dog that the Russians put into space, or just a play on words (Like a...)
-David

It's a boost booster, to boost your boost - it makes your tone much muchier.

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by HH1978 » Sun Mar 08, 2020 12:27 pm

I didn't come up with the name, it's on the PCB by Deadend Fx. I assumed it was the dog, since it's a clone of the Spaceman Sputnik II. I didn't think of the word game, probably because I'm not english native :D

Not sure what the timeline was, but after the release of the Sputnik II, there were some Laika pedals sold by Demedash effects. They were veroboard clones of the sputnik II, so not related to the Deadend FX PCB. Not sure if the latter took their inspiration on Steve Demedash's work to name their project or if it is a coincidence.
Not that I’m all that familiar with them, but I’d be curious to know how the other parts that you’re waiting on sound in it, vs what you have in it now.
It's only one germanium diode, and it acts only when the drift mode is engaged. It should change the oscillation a bit, but not drastically, as the current 1N34 is a near equivalent. There's also a 50k trimmer in the circuit that adjusts the oscillation. I would guess that both diodes can get the same sounds at slightly different trimmer settings. I'll post the results when I know.
I think it was smart to socket it for other trannies
I'll leave the sockets in permanently, since I observed very significant sound differences with other transistors. I have a nice stash of about 300 germanium trannies, of various origins and types. And some more to come, as I recently spoke with a friend at work, who inherited of an old radio engineer's stock of tubes and transistors, which he has no use for. The pedal calls for 50-90 Hfe, and most of the ones I currently have fall in that range, so I should have some fun!

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by somanytoys » Sun Mar 08, 2020 12:55 pm

I thought that was the name of the dog, but wasn’t positive. The word play was just a stab in the dark, in case I was wrong and that wasn't the dog’s name! Haha

Damn, that’s really cool that you got those old parts, on top of all the other ones you have. My grandfather had a few old stereos that probably had some really nice similar parts in it, but it was long ago when those were everywhere, and I had no idea about that stuff back then or I would have grabbed them. They probably ended up getting thrown in the trash after he died.

I only have a socket in my TS-9 to swap the chips, but it’s really convenient since I’m not the best at soldering in small pedals, so I think that was a great move.
-David

It's a boost booster, to boost your boost - it makes your tone much muchier.

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by HH1978 » Mon Apr 06, 2020 3:43 pm

I've experimented a bit with transistors, and found some interesting things.

1) The circuit is quite forgiving. Some transistors that I didn't like so much in my fuzz face test circuit (basically a Sunface clone with sockets and a 25k sundial instead of the usual 5k) sound great in it.

2) The sounds from the 'normal' fuzz vary with transistors, but the changes are more radical in 'drift' mode. Lots of interesting things to do :)

3) It's best to avoid noisy transistors in Q2 (input stage). The 2n1925 I initially used sounded good, but there was some hiss. Better results with MP39B, AC107, NKT216 and CV7005.

4) Q3 needs a bit of leakage (50µA is enough), or the sound is gated, especially when you turn the calibrate knob up. That said, the gated sound is awesome, so I'm glad it's socketed : I can use that for recording when I feel like it.

Currently, I have three NKT216 in it, and I dig it.

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by Shadoweclipse13 » Mon Apr 06, 2020 7:18 pm

I might have to check this out. I've been contemplating a different fuzz on my board, and versatile is something I'd want for sure.
Pickup Switching Mad Scientist
http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104282&p=1438384#p1438384

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by HH1978 » Tue Apr 07, 2020 2:52 pm

As far as versatility goes, this circuit certainly doesn't disappoint.

If you don't want to use the PCB, and build from the schematic, the exact schematic is in the build docs : https://drive.google.com/file/d/19kBGR2 ... VsTjs/view.

The schematic I posted above is the original Sputnik, which has one switch less (diode reversal mode, only active in drift mode).

Both use the Milennium 2 bypass, not sure why. You could probably use a standard 3pdt true bypass and save some parts, but I used the PCB so I did not try.

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by digi2t » Mon May 04, 2020 5:38 am

Hi there. Digi2t of Dead End FX here.

First off, nice build. I'm a sucker for carbon comp resistors, regardless of how they value drift over time. Just to confirm some of the inquiries, we did indeed name this project after the dog that valiantly gave her life in the name of research aboard Sputnik II. It's not a play in words, since it is a fuzz, and not like-a-fuzz. ;)

I should also point out that we recently posted an error correction for these boards on our Facebook page. There was a trace that I missed, and it wasn't until Steve Demedash brought a pair of resistors in the high filter stack that were doing nothing to my attention, that we put 2 and 2 together. Amazingly enough, not one builder to date had picked up on it! As such, the high filtering section, while it seems to work, doesn't work as it was intended. My 28 June 2017 schematic that was posted in the OP post is incorrect. The build document however has been updated (22 April 2020), and the missing trace has been added. There is also an annex that addresses this issue, with an easy fix at the end of the document. https://drive.google.com/file/d/19kBGR2 ... VsTjs/view. A new v.2 generation of PCB's is also now available, which not only include the offending trace miss, but a new layout and simplified offboard wiring.

Speaking of Steve Demedash... funny story; He initially started producing "Laika" branded pedals based on the original schematic that I had published. Much to his surprise, he was unaware that we had already corralled the Laika name before he thought of it. Apparently, we were all unwittingly on the same page. Anyway, he agreed to stop using the name. No only that, he was generous enough to lend us his Sputnik I for tracing! If it wasn't for his eagle eyes, and the fact that we also had a trace of the Sputnik I, we would have never been the wiser where the missing trace in the Laika is concerned. He is a friend to Dead End FX, a valuable ally to the DIY community, and not least of all an all around nice guy. We're thankful that he's on our side.

Returning to the original 28 June 2017 schematic for a moment. That is actually the earliest version of my trace. There is however a later one, where I added the diode reversal switch for the Drift mode. This switch is found on all DEFX boards, and really enhances the flexibility of the drift mode. I'm truly surprised that this was never incorporated into the Sputniks.

Penultimate, as you may well know, the Sputnik III is now out. To be honest... I'm a tad disappointed. The only difference between it, and the other Sputniks is that they have actually pared down the filter section to a single toggle, like the Sputnik I, and added soft relay switching. I've had only a quick look to date, but quite frankly, I would not be giving up my Sputnik II or Laika anytime soon. Relay switching seems to be something that Spaceman has latched on to (pardon the pun) since the Orion. Since relay muting switching was an absolute necessity on the Orion (switch pop was horrible), and soft relay switching used on the Apollo VII, it would seem now that they have gone all in on it. Unfortunately, relay switching requires real estate on a PCB, and since the Sputnik III now sports TWO relay systems (one for the bypass and the other for the Drift), they had to give something up; one of the filter section switches. Hence a return to the Sputnik I single filter switch configuration. So, you get...

- Sputnik I filter section.
- Still no diode reversal switch for the Drift mode.
- A choice of latching or momentary function for the Drift switch (big deal!).
- Relay bypass (when the original Millennium II bypass scheme worked just fine in the others).

In other words, you're not getting much more than what the Sputnik II (or Laika) already offers performance-wise. OK... the momentary or latching function MAY be of interest to a few, but seriously... click once, or click twice. Big deal! Also, it strays mightily from the KISS principal (Keep It Simple Stupid), and only introduces more things to go wrong with it.

Finally, while I've been a Spaceman fan since.... I don't know.... long time (actually I came into the game at the Gemini III, which was also my first Spaceman trace), they are beginning to lose their shine. Why? I'll tell you why. Spaceman used to be a beacon of the boutique pedal industry. Their concept outstanding, designs were original, their craftsmanship impeccable, and their circuits produced sounds and tones like no other. For a long time, they appeared to be The Cream that other cream only wished they could float along side. But alas, like all things come to pass, they are slowly descending into the ranks of "just another pedal company" status. While they do still produce some cracker jack builds with their limited runs, the fact that they have given in to making mass production runs of pedals using SMD components is disappointing. This, to me, tells me that they had to face an obvious business conundrum; be small and be great, or be bigger and not so great. Looks to be obvious which direction they're heading for. Not only that, but their latest Secret Mission X offerings have been somewhat lame and confusing. Case in point; I was lucky enough to have been able to get my hands on a Secret Mission X issue. What I got was an envelope filter. Quite nice actually. Very quacky, and fairly featured. I was actually impressed by the fact that Spaceman appeared to be ready to finally drift away from the fuzz/overdrive/overdrive/fuzz/fuzz/overdrive parade (I was hoping for a chorus, but I digress). But no. Instead, we got the Sputnik III. A weak attempt to reinvigorate a line that can firmly stand on it's own two footswitches, but stuffed with added shit like a micro-controller and relays that no one needs.

Last time I checked, relay switching didn't do anything for anyone on the tone front.

Anyway, I've said enough. It is what it is, and probably always will be. Glad you're enjoying the Laika, and to all the DIY'ers out there, keep on rocking and doing your thing. The world always needs more creativity. Cheers!
https://www.deadendfx.com/

"Turn down amp, strum harder" - PRR

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by HH1978 » Fri May 08, 2020 8:21 am

Hi there. Digi2t of Dead End FX here.
Hi Dino,

It's great to see you chiming in here!
First of all, I really want to thank you for the time you spend tracing the pedals and conceiving PCB (which BTW are really high quality).

I saw the doc update on your website, so I added the jumper. It improved the filter's response indeed.

Actually, I built two Laika's. I didn't have all the CC resistors available for the second one, so I went all metal film. I was skeptical, but it really seems to make a noticeable difference. Whatever the transistors I throw in (I still have the sockets on both pedals), the CC one is a bit warmer and smoother, while the metal film one is crisper. Both sound great, but my personal preference go to CC. All other parts are identical, and they are biased the same. Might be parts tolerance, or a difference of sound due to the type of resistors, I don't know. The CC resistors themselves I measured before building, not one had drifted.
Finally, I settled on MP16B transistors throughout, they really shine in that circuit.

Also, I still have the 1N34 diode on both for the drift section. I could find some D9E in the meantime. Would it make a significant difference to swap them in ? The Vf of the 1N34 is respectively .366 and .350.

I also built the Redstone, which is equally wonderful, and I have an Crazy Diamond PCB that I haven't assembled yet. Oh, and I tried the Flint on my breadboard, next PCB buy for sure :)

Interesting story about Steve Demedash. I was wondering what the relation was between your PCB and his pedal. He's a great builder, his T-120 is definetely on my wish list.

I kind of agree with you about the latest Spaceman releases, and I was truly disappointed when I realised what the Sputnik III was. I expected something else. And overall, I share your analysis of why the company seems to lose their shine. Hope they will surprise us.

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by digi2t » Tue May 12, 2020 7:20 am

Hey there HH. Thanks for the kind words. Phil and I generally have a good time bringing these great circuits to the DIY community.... except when we screw up. :D I do the tracing, and Phil does the design work.

Seriously though, you are absolutely correct where different parts and tolerances are concerned. It will change the character somewhat, so experimentation is always highly encouraged. Insofar as component drift is concerned, you won't notice that for several decades. Perhaps when your kid's kid is playing it one day, he/she might say "What in the fuck did the old man find so groovy about this thing?". Or, perhaps like a fine wine, it may get better. Who knows.

As for the diode, it's not so much the vF that makes the difference, as the actual knee. Over at the DIYSB forum, diy-tubes has an excellent thread on this, where he actually plots the curves of several different diodes;

https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/ ... c=118007.0

If you look at the curve difference between a 1N34 and the D9E, although the vF difference isn't that great, you'll see how much smoother the transition is. Even if you get a D9E at the same exact vF as a 1N34, the knee will be much gentler. This translates directly to my ears when I use the drift mode on the Laika. Oscillation transitions are less jumpy, and more behaved. I found this on the breadboard as well. Also, the diode reversing switch on the Laika goes a long way to making the drift mode a much more musical tool.
https://www.deadendfx.com/

"Turn down amp, strum harder" - PRR

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by HH1978 » Fri May 15, 2020 3:29 pm

Thanks for the link! I had seen that thread a while ago, but couldn't find it anymore.

I just breadborded a Sputnik 1 using the Deshere schematic. I'll try with different diodes. I have some D9D, D9E, and D9J Out of curiosity, did you try the D9V? Those seem to have a very gentle knee.

About the Sputnik 1, I can see why some people prefer its voicing to the II. Although they are very similar, it seems to have a bit of extra liveliness. Probably the price to pay for the more elaborate filter section on the II. I still prefer the II because I really love that filter section.
Oh, and I totally agree about the diode reversal mode, a fantastic addition.

I wonder, did you ever trace an Aphelion? I'm very curious about that one.

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by digi2t » Fri May 15, 2020 3:48 pm

HH1978 wrote:
Fri May 15, 2020 3:29 pm
I wonder, did you ever trace an Aphelion? I'm very curious about that one.
Ironic you should mention it. I just finished tracing it last week. We're working up a board for it now.

We also have Voyager, Sputnik III, Cosmic Call, and Atlas III on the back burners.
https://www.deadendfx.com/

"Turn down amp, strum harder" - PRR

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Re: Just built a Laika fuzz

Post by HH1978 » Sat May 16, 2020 1:26 am

Wow, great news! I'm definetely interested in the Voyager and the Atlas III also!

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